Austria

When in doubt, order Grüner Veltliner - the national white.

About a third of Austria's vineyards grow Grüner Veltliner. It's fresh, citrusy and peppery, works with almost any Austrian dish, and even modest bottles are reliable. Start there, then explore the region's other wines.

About a third of Austria's vineyards grow Grüner Veltliner. It's fresh, citrusy and peppery, works with almost any Austrian dish, and even modest bottles are reliable. Start there, then explore the region's other wines.

A village name on the label is the value sweet spot.

Austrian quality wines climb from region to village to single vineyard. The village-level wine (Ortswein) from a good estate is noticeably deeper than the basic regional wine, yet much cheaper than its single-vineyard bottlings.

Austrian quality wines climb from region to village to single vineyard. The village-level wine (Ortswein) from a good estate is noticeably deeper than the basic regional wine, yet much cheaper than its single-vineyard bottlings.

Follow the pine branch: it marks a Heuriger that's open now.

Wine-growers' taverns hang a bundle of pine or fir branches and an 'Ausg'steckt' sign when they're open. Inside you drink the family's own wine with a simple cold buffet - the most local, best-value wine experience in the country.

Wine-growers' taverns hang a bundle of pine or fir branches and an 'Ausg'steckt' sign when they're open. Inside you drink the family's own wine with a simple cold buffet - the most local, best-value wine experience in the country.

Austrian table wine is dry unless the label says otherwise.

Nearly all everyday Austrian whites and reds are dry. Sweet wines announce themselves with words like Spätlese, Auslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese, usually in half bottles - so you rarely get a sweet surprise by accident.

Nearly all everyday Austrian whites and reds are dry. Sweet wines announce themselves with words like Spätlese, Auslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese, usually in half bottles - so you rarely get a sweet surprise by accident.

Danube valleys: terraced Grüner Veltliner and Riesling - Austria's white heartland.

West of Vienna the Danube and its side valleys cut through rock and loess. The Wachau's stone terraces, Kremstal and Kamptal make the country's most celebrated dry Grüner Veltliner and Riesling; Traisental and Wagram add value and fine loess-grown Grüner.

West of Vienna the Danube and its side valleys cut through rock and loess. The Wachau's stone terraces, Kremstal and Kamptal make the country's most celebrated dry Grüner Veltliner and Riesling; Traisental and Wagram add value and fine loess-grown Grüner.

Wachau · Kremstal · Kamptal · Traisental · Wagram

Style: Dry, mineral, age-worthy whites from terraces and loess

Look for: Wachau Smaragd Grüner Veltliner / Riesling, Kamptal DAC Riesling, Kremstal DAC Grüner Veltliner, Wagram Grüner Veltliner

Wachau, Kremstal & Kamptal guide

Weinviertel: the largest region, home of peppery everyday Grüner.

The rolling 'wine quarter' north of Vienna up to the Czech border. Its DAC is Grüner Veltliner only: fresh, light and peppery at the basic level, fuller as Reserve. Great value for everyday drinking.

The rolling 'wine quarter' north of Vienna up to the Czech border. Its DAC is Grüner Veltliner only: fresh, light and peppery at the basic level, fuller as Reserve. Great value for everyday drinking.

Weinviertel

Style: Fresh, peppery Grüner Veltliner; value

Look for: Weinviertel DAC Grüner Veltliner, Weinviertel DAC Reserve

South and east of Vienna: Carnuntum reds and Thermenregion's rare whites.

Carnuntum, between Vienna and Bratislava, makes juicy Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. The Thermenregion south of the city is known for two rare local whites, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler, plus St. Laurent and Pinot Noir.

Carnuntum, between Vienna and Bratislava, makes juicy Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. The Thermenregion south of the city is known for two rare local whites, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler, plus St. Laurent and Pinot Noir.

Carnuntum · Thermenregion

Style: Fruity reds; spicy, full local whites

Look for: Carnuntum Zweigelt, Thermenregion Zierfandler / Rotgipfler, Thermenregion St. Laurent

Vienna: a capital with its own vineyards and field-blend wine.

Vienna has several hundred hectares of vines inside city limits. Its signature is Wiener Gemischter Satz - several white grapes grown and picked together - drunk young in the city's Heurigen taverns.

Vienna has several hundred hectares of vines inside city limits. Its signature is Wiener Gemischter Satz - several white grapes grown and picked together - drunk young in the city's Heurigen taverns.

Wien

Style: Fresh field-blend whites, Heuriger culture

Look for: Wiener Gemischter Satz

Lake Neusiedl: famous sweet wines, Zweigelt and lime-soil Blaufränkisch.

Around the shallow Neusiedlersee the lake's mists bring noble rot almost every year, giving some of Europe's great sweet wines (Ruster Ausbruch among them). Higher ground makes Zweigelt and, on the Leithaberg slopes, taut Blaufränkisch.

Around the shallow Neusiedlersee the lake's mists bring noble rot almost every year, giving some of Europe's great sweet wines (Ruster Ausbruch among them). Higher ground makes Zweigelt and, on the Leithaberg slopes, taut Blaufränkisch.

Neusiedlersee · Leithaberg · Ruster Ausbruch · Rosalia

Style: Botrytis sweet wines; reds; mineral whites

Look for: Trockenbeerenauslese, Ruster Ausbruch, Neusiedlersee DAC Zweigelt, Leithaberg DAC Blaufränkisch

Central and southern Burgenland: Blaufränkisch country.

Mittelburgenland is Austria's biggest Blaufränkisch area, with the small Eisenberg zone further south. Expect dark cherry, pepper and fresh acidity, from juicy to serious and age-worthy.

Mittelburgenland is Austria's biggest Blaufränkisch area, with the small Eisenberg zone further south. Expect dark cherry, pepper and fresh acidity, from juicy to serious and age-worthy.

Mittelburgenland · Eisenberg

Style: Spicy, structured reds

Look for: Mittelburgenland DAC Blaufränkisch, Eisenberg DAC Blaufränkisch

Styria: steep green hills, vivid Sauvignon Blanc and Muskateller.

Austria's south, near Slovenia, has steep, rainy hillsides. Südsteiermark is Sauvignon Blanc country, with aromatic Muskateller and Chardonnay (locally Morillon); West Styria makes Schilcher, a sharp local rosé.

Austria's south, near Slovenia, has steep, rainy hillsides. Südsteiermark is Sauvignon Blanc country, with aromatic Muskateller and Chardonnay (locally Morillon); West Styria makes Schilcher, a sharp local rosé.

Südsteiermark · Vulkanland Steiermark · Weststeiermark

Style: Aromatic, high-acid whites; Schilcher rosé

Look for: Südsteiermark DAC Sauvignon Blanc, Gelber Muskateller, Morillon, Schilcher

Read region (DAC), then grape, then village or 'Ried' vineyard.

Most Austrian labels show the producer, the grape (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Blaufränkisch), the region with 'DAC', and - higher up the ladder - a village and a Ried vineyard name. The more specific the place, the more serious the wine.

Most Austrian labels show the producer, the grape (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Blaufränkisch), the region with 'DAC', and - higher up the ladder - a village and a Ried vineyard name. The more specific the place, the more serious the wine.

Tip: Order: producer, grape, region DAC, village, Ried

A state name (Niederösterreich, Burgenland) means it's outside the local DAC rules.

Once a region is a DAC, its name is reserved for the DAC grapes and styles. A Zweigelt from Kamptal, say, is labelled 'Niederösterreich' instead. It's no verdict on quality - just a grape or style the DAC doesn't cover.

Once a region is a DAC, its name is reserved for the DAC grapes and styles. A Zweigelt from Kamptal, say, is labelled 'Niederösterreich' instead. It's no verdict on quality - just a grape or style the DAC doesn't cover.

Tip: Broad state name on a top estate's bottle = often an interesting off-DAC wine

The red-white-red stripe on the capsule = state-tested quality wine.

Austrian quality wine carries a banderole in the national colours on the capsule and a Prüfnummer (test number) on the label. It proves the wine passed analysis and a blind tasting - a floor, not a sign of greatness.

Austrian quality wine carries a banderole in the national colours on the capsule and a Prüfnummer (test number) on the label. It proves the wine passed analysis and a blind tasting - a floor, not a sign of greatness.

Tip: Banderole + Prüfnummer = tested and traceable

Half bottle plus a Prädikat word = dessert wine.

Sweet Austrian wines usually come in 37.5 cl bottles with Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese on the label. A full-size bottle with 'trocken' or a DAC name is a dry table wine.

Sweet Austrian wines usually come in 37.5 cl bottles with Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese on the label. A full-size bottle with 'trocken' or a DAC name is a dry table wine.

Tip: Check bottle size and the Prädikat word before buying for dinner

DAC: region name plus typical grape - Austria's top origin category.

A DAC is a quality wine that tastes typical of its region, made from the grapes the region chose (Grüner Veltliner and Riesling in Kamptal, Blaufränkisch in Mittelburgenland). Every Austrian wine region now has one.

A DAC is a quality wine that tastes typical of its region, made from the grapes the region chose (Grüner Veltliner and Riesling in Kamptal, Blaufränkisch in Mittelburgenland). Every Austrian wine region now has one.

Quality wine with regional typicity, rules set by each region

Spot it: Region name followed by 'DAC', e.g. 'Kamptal DAC'

Qualitätswein: state-tested quality wine with a red-white-red capsule stripe.

Grapes come from one wine region and every wine passes a lab analysis and a blind tasting before it gets a test number. Wines from DAC regions that use other grapes are sold as Qualitätswein under the federal state's name.

Grapes come from one wine region and every wine passes a lab analysis and a blind tasting before it gets a test number. Wines from DAC regions that use other grapes are sold as Qualitätswein under the federal state's name.

Quality wine from a defined region, state-tested

Spot it: Red-white-red banderole on the capsule and a state test number (Prüfnummer) on the label

Prädikatswein: the sweet-wine branch, graded by grape ripeness.

A separate category for wines from very ripe, shrivelled or frozen grapes, with no added sugar allowed. Levels run Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein, Strohwein, Trockenbeerenauslese - and Ausbruch, used only in Rust. In practice these are dessert wines.

A separate category for wines from very ripe, shrivelled or frozen grapes, with no added sugar allowed. Levels run Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein, Strohwein, Trockenbeerenauslese - and Ausbruch, used only in Rust. In practice these are dessert wines.

Wine graded by must weight; mostly sweet

Spot it: A Prädikat word (Auslese, Eiswein, TBA...) on the label, often in a half bottle

Landwein: broad regional wine - Weinland, Steirerland or Bergland.

A country-wine tier with looser rules. Origin is one of three big zones: Weinland (Lower Austria, Burgenland, Vienna), Steirerland (Styria) or Bergland (the Alpine west). Mostly simple, though a few individualists use it by choice.

A country-wine tier with looser rules. Origin is one of three big zones: Weinland (Lower Austria, Burgenland, Vienna), Steirerland (Styria) or Bergland (the Alpine west). Mostly simple, though a few individualists use it by choice.

Protected regional wine (PGI)

Spot it: 'Landwein' with Weinland, Steirerland or Bergland

Wein: basic Austrian wine with no region named.

The entry tier: wine from Austria without a more specific origin. Fine at a festival or in a spritzer; rarely the bottle to take home.

The entry tier: wine from Austria without a more specific origin. Fine at a festival or in a spritzer; rarely the bottle to take home.

Wine without geographical indication

Spot it: No region, DAC or Landwein on the label

g.U. and g.g.A. are the EU names; DAC sits inside Qualitätswein.

Under EU law Qualitätswein, Prädikatswein and DAC wines are all protected designations of origin (g.U.), and Landwein is a protected geographical indication (g.g.A.). A DAC is legally a narrower kind of Qualitätswein, not a separate rung above it.

Austria's tiers sit inside the EU system. Qualitätswein, Prädikatswein and the DACs all count as g.U. (geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung, PDO); Landwein is g.g.A. (PGI). A DAC is a region's own specification inside Qualitätswein: once a region becomes a DAC, its name is reserved for wines that meet that DAC's grape and style rules, and everything else from the same vineyards is sold under the federal state name (Niederösterreich, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wien). Prädikat levels still exist nationally, but in practice they mark sweet wines, while the DAC is the main route for dry ones. For the traveler, that means two things: a region name plus 'DAC' tells you which grapes and style to expect, and a top estate's bottle labelled only with a state name is often an interesting off-DAC wine worth tasting.

EU names for Austria's tiers

Spot it: 'g.U.' on Sekt and some still wines; 'g.g.A.' rarely printed

Region, village, vineyard: Gebietswein, Ortswein, Riedenwein.

Every DAC sorts its wines in three steps. Gebietswein names only the region and is fresh and fruity; Ortswein adds a village and more depth; Riedenwein names a single vineyard and is the fullest and most age-worthy. Each step up means fewer permitted grapes and stricter rules.

Every DAC sorts its wines in three steps. Gebietswein names only the region and is fresh and fruity; Ortswein adds a village and more depth; Riedenwein names a single vineyard and is the fullest and most age-worthy. Each step up means fewer permitted grapes and stricter rules.

Regional / village / single-vineyard wine

Watch out: Some simple, lightly aged wines also carry vineyard names; 'Reserve' helps tell the serious ones apart

'Ried' before a name = a single, registered vineyard.

Austrian single-vineyard wines print 'Ried' in front of the site name, next to the village (e.g. Ried Heiligenstein, Zöbing). It's usually the producer's top wine from that area.

Austrian single-vineyard wines print 'Ried' in front of the site name, next to the village (e.g. Ried Heiligenstein, Zöbing). It's usually the producer's top wine from that area.

Single vineyard site

Watch out: A vineyard name isn't a quality ranking on its own - the producer still matters most

Reserve = riper grapes, later release: fuller and richer.

A defined term for a riper, fuller vintage-dated quality wine that is held back longer before sale. Expect more body, sometimes oak or a touch of botrytis.

A defined term for a riper, fuller vintage-dated quality wine that is held back longer before sale. Expect more body, sometimes oak or a touch of botrytis.

Riper, fuller, later-released quality wine

Watch out: Bigger isn't always better - for crisp food wines pick the non-Reserve

Klassik = the fresh, unoaked standard style.

Several DACs and many producers use Klassik for the lighter, fruit-driven, usually unoaked version of a wine - the opposite of Reserve. In Sekt, Klassik is the entry tier.

Several DACs and many producers use Klassik for the lighter, fruit-driven, usually unoaked version of a wine - the opposite of Reserve. In Sekt, Klassik is the entry tier.

Fresh, standard style

Watch out: Not used by every DAC - many now use the region/village/vineyard steps instead

Erste Lage / Große Lage: Austria's premier and grand cru vineyards.

The law lets DAC regions classify their top vineyards as Erste Lage (premier cru) and, later, Große Lage (grand cru). The mark you'll most often see is '1ÖTW', the private classification of the ÖTW growers' association.

Austria has written the idea of classified vineyards into its wine law. A DAC region that uses the full region-village-vineyard pyramid can have individual Rieden recognised as Erste Lage on the strength of their history, soil, climate and reputation, with hand harvesting and lower yields; Große Lage is meant as the step above. Each region decides whether to take part. The groundwork came from the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW), an association of leading Danube estates that marks its privately classified sites '1ÖTW' and now covers Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wagram, Carnuntum, Vienna, Thermenregion and Weinviertel. Styria's STK growers run a similar private ranking. The Wachau is not among the ÖTW regions - there, Ried names and the three Wachau style levels guide you. For a visitor, a 1ÖTW or Erste Lage wine is the estate's top single-vineyard bottle: taste it at the winery, buy the village wine for everyday.

Classified top vineyard (premier / grand cru)

Watch out: '1ÖTW' is a private growers' mark, not a legal rank

Wachau only: Steinfeder (light), Federspiel (medium), Smaragd (rich).

The Wachau's growers sort their dry whites into three levels by ripeness and weight: Steinfeder is light and fresh, Federspiel medium-bodied, Smaragd rich and powerful. All are dry, rarely with noticeable oak.

The Wachau's growers sort their dry whites into three levels by ripeness and weight: Steinfeder is light and fresh, Federspiel medium-bodied, Smaragd rich and powerful. All are dry, rarely with noticeable oak.

Wachau dry-white style levels

Watch out: Federspiel is the food-friendly sweet spot; Smaragd is powerful and wants time

Trocken dry; halbtrocken off-dry; lieblich medium-sweet; süß sweet.

Trocken is dry, halbtrocken off-dry, lieblich medium-sweet and süß sweet. Most bottles you'll meet are trocken.

Trocken is dry, halbtrocken off-dry, lieblich medium-sweet and süß sweet. Most bottles you'll meet are trocken.

Sweetness of still wine

Watch out: High acidity makes a 'trocken' Riesling with a few grams of sugar still taste bone-dry

Spätlese to Trockenbeerenauslese: the sweet-wine ripeness ladder.

Spätlese (late-picked) and Auslese (selected bunches) lead to Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese (botrytised, shrivelled berries). Eiswein uses frozen grapes, Strohwein/Schilfwein grapes dried on straw or reeds, and Ausbruch is Rust's historic botrytis wine.

Spätlese (late-picked) and Auslese (selected bunches) lead to Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese (botrytised, shrivelled berries). Eiswein uses frozen grapes, Strohwein/Schilfwein grapes dried on straw or reeds, and Ausbruch is Rust's historic botrytis wine.

Prädikat (sweet-wine) levels

Watch out: TBA and Ausbruch are rare and pricey; Auslese and BA are the gentler entry points

Sekt g.U.: Klassik, Reserve, Große Reserve - Austria's sparkling ladder.

Klassik is the fresh entry level and may be made by any method. Reserve is bottle-fermented, hand-picked, rested longer on its lees and Brut or drier. Große Reserve spends longer still on the lees and comes from a single village - Austria's top fizz.

Klassik is the fresh entry level and may be made by any method. Reserve is bottle-fermented, hand-picked, rested longer on its lees and Brut or drier. Große Reserve spends longer still on the lees and comes from a single village - Austria's top fizz.

Protected-origin sparkling wine tiers

Watch out: Plain 'Sekt' without g.U. can be made from imported base wine

On Sekt, Extra Dry is sweeter than Brut.

Sparkling sweetness runs Brut Nature and Extra Brut (driest), Brut, then Extra Dry and Dry, which are noticeably sweeter. For a dry aperitif, choose Brut or drier.

Sparkling sweetness runs Brut Nature and Extra Brut (driest), Brut, then Extra Dry and Dry, which are noticeably sweeter. For a dry aperitif, choose Brut or drier.

Sweetness levels for sparkling wine

Watch out: 'Dry' on a sparkling label means noticeably sweet

Alte Reben = old vines.

Old vines give smaller crops and often more concentrated wine. Not legally defined, so it's a producer's own claim - but from a good estate it usually marks a step up.

Old vines give smaller crops and often more concentrated wine. Not legally defined, so it's a producer's own claim - but from a good estate it usually marks a step up.

Old vines

Watch out: No legal minimum age

'Heuriger' on a bottle or board = this year's young wine.

Besides the tavern, Heuriger also names the newest vintage's wine, traditionally sold as such through the autumn until St Martin's Day. Expect it fresh, light and meant for drinking now.

Besides the tavern, Heuriger also names the newest vintage's wine, traditionally sold as such through the autumn until St Martin's Day. Expect it fresh, light and meant for drinking now.

Young wine of the latest vintage

Watch out: Not built to age - drink it on the trip

Austria's strict testing means even basic quality wine is clean and dry.

A wine scandal in the 1980s pushed Austria toward strict testing and dry, origin-driven wines. The upshot for you: everyday quality wine is reliably well made, and the real choices are region, village and grower.

Austria rebuilt its wine image in the decades after a mid-1980s adulteration scandal, and that history explains what you find in the glass today. Every Qualitätswein is lab-tested and blind-tasted before it gets a test number, signalled by the red-white-red banderole on the capsule, so even a modest bottle is technically clean. A new generation of quality-minded family estates turned to dry, crisp wines that taste of their place, and the DAC system grew from that idea: name the region, use its signature grapes, then climb to village and single vineyard for more depth. The old German-style ripeness ladder survives mainly for sweet wines. For a traveler, the practical upshot is reassuring: choose by region, village, vineyard and grower rather than by technical terms, and you will rarely go wrong.

Why Austrian labels look the way they do

Watch out: Old Prädikat terms still exist but mainly for sweet wines

Grüner Veltliner: citrus, green apple and a twist of white pepper.

Austria's signature grape, about a third of all vines. Light versions are zesty and peppery; low-yield vineyard wines from the Danube are full, textured and age into honey and toast.

Austria's signature grape, about a third of all vines. Light versions are zesty and peppery; low-yield vineyard wines from the Danube are full, textured and age into honey and toast.

white

Tastes like: Lemon, green apple, white pepper; honey and toast with age

Where it shines: Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal, Wagram, Weinviertel

Order: A Kamptal or Kremstal Ortswein Grüner with Wiener Schnitzel

Riesling: dry, intense, stony - the Danube's top white.

Austrian Riesling is mostly dry and fuller than German Riesling, with peach, citrus and a mineral edge. The best vineyard bottlings from the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal age for decades.

Austrian Riesling is mostly dry and fuller than German Riesling, with peach, citrus and a mineral edge. The best vineyard bottlings from the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal age for decades.

white

Tastes like: Peach, lime, stony minerality, high acidity

Where it shines: Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental

Order: A single-Ried Riesling from the Danube for a special dinner

Welschriesling: zippy everyday white - and a sweet-wine star.

No relation to Riesling. Dry, it's light, simple and very crisp - a summer spritzer wine. Around Lake Neusiedl it catches noble rot and makes superb sweet wines.

No relation to Riesling. Dry, it's light, simple and very crisp - a summer spritzer wine. Around Lake Neusiedl it catches noble rot and makes superb sweet wines.

white

Tastes like: Green apple, citrus, very crisp; honeyed when botrytised

Where it shines: Styria (dry), Neusiedlersee (sweet)

Order: A Welschriesling Beerenauslese with dessert

Sauvignon Blanc: Styria's vivid, herbal, high-acid white.

In southern Styria it's crisp and aromatic - gooseberry, elderflower, fresh herbs - often more restrained and mineral than New Zealand versions.

In southern Styria it's crisp and aromatic - gooseberry, elderflower, fresh herbs - often more restrained and mineral than New Zealand versions.

white

Tastes like: Gooseberry, elderflower, herbs, high acidity

Where it shines: Südsteiermark, Vulkanland Steiermark

Order: Südsteiermark DAC Sauvignon Blanc with fried chicken or a salad

Gelber Muskateller: grapey and floral, but dry - a perfect aperitif.

Smells sweet, tastes dry: orange blossom, elderflower and fresh grapes with light body. Popular across Styria and Lower Austria as a spring and summer opener.

Smells sweet, tastes dry: orange blossom, elderflower and fresh grapes with light body. Popular across Styria and Lower Austria as a spring and summer opener.

white

Tastes like: Fresh grapes, orange blossom, elderflower

Where it shines: Styria, Wachau, Lower Austria

Order: A glass of Muskateller as an aperitif

Weissburgunder and Morillon: Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, Austrian style.

Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) is soft, nutty and creamy; Morillon is the Styrian name for Chardonnay, usually fresher and less buttery than New World versions. Both shine in Styria and the Thermenregion.

Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) is soft, nutty and creamy; Morillon is the Styrian name for Chardonnay, usually fresher and less buttery than New World versions. Both shine in Styria and the Thermenregion.

white

Tastes like: Apple, almond, cream; fresh citrus in Morillon

Where it shines: Südsteiermark, Thermenregion, Wachau

Order: A Styrian Morillon with roast chicken or fish

Zierfandler and Rotgipfler: rare, spicy whites from south of Vienna.

Two local grapes found almost only in the Thermenregion around Gumpoldskirchen. Full, spicy and aromatic, and traditionally blended together - a real local find.

Two local grapes found almost only in the Thermenregion around Gumpoldskirchen. Full, spicy and aromatic, and traditionally blended together - a real local find.

white

Tastes like: Spice, quince, orange peel, full body

Where it shines: Thermenregion (Gumpoldskirchen)

Order: A Gumpoldskirchen Zierfandler at a Thermenregion Heuriger

Gemischter Satz: a field blend - many grapes grown and picked together.

Vienna's speciality: at least three white varieties planted in one vineyard and fermented together. Fresh, fragrant and layered; Wiener Gemischter Satz has its own DAC and is the house wine of the city's Heurigen.

Vienna's speciality: at least three white varieties planted in one vineyard and fermented together. Fresh, fragrant and layered; Wiener Gemischter Satz has its own DAC and is the house wine of the city's Heurigen.

white

Tastes like: Apple, citrus, flowers, gentle spice - varies by plot

Where it shines: Vienna (Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC), also Weinviertel

Order: Wiener Gemischter Satz by the glass at a Vienna Heuriger

Zweigelt: soft, juicy, cherry-red - Austria's everyday red.

Austria's most planted red, a 1920s cross of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. Deep in colour with soft tannin and bramble fruit; light versions are lovely slightly chilled, fuller ones age a few years.

Austria's most planted red, a 1920s cross of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. Deep in colour with soft tannin and bramble fruit; light versions are lovely slightly chilled, fuller ones age a few years.

red

Tastes like: Cherry, bramble, soft tannin

Where it shines: Neusiedlersee, Carnuntum, all of Lower Austria

Order: A lightly chilled Zweigelt at a Heuriger

Blaufränkisch: dark cherry, pepper, fresh acidity - Austria's serious red.

Medium tannin, high acidity and peppery dark fruit. Juicy and good value at entry level; from Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland or Eisenberg vineyards it's structured, mineral and age-worthy.

Medium tannin, high acidity and peppery dark fruit. Juicy and good value at entry level; from Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland or Eisenberg vineyards it's structured, mineral and age-worthy.

red

Tastes like: Sour and dark cherry, black pepper, high acidity

Where it shines: Mittelburgenland, Leithaberg, Eisenberg, Carnuntum

Order: Mittelburgenland Blaufränkisch with roast pork or game

St. Laurent: silky, Pinot-like red with dark cherry.

A tricky grape to grow with Pinot Noir in its family tree. Silky and fragrant with sour-cherry fruit - one parent of Zweigelt and a speciality of the Thermenregion and Burgenland.

A tricky grape to grow with Pinot Noir in its family tree. Silky and fragrant with sour-cherry fruit - one parent of Zweigelt and a speciality of the Thermenregion and Burgenland.

red

Tastes like: Sour cherry, plum, silky texture

Where it shines: Thermenregion, Neusiedlersee

Order: St. Laurent with duck or mushrooms

Blauer Wildbacher makes Schilcher: West Styria's sharp, onion-skin rosé.

An old local red grape turned into Schilcher, a pale, very high-acid rosé from the hills south-west of Graz. Bracing and refreshing - an acquired taste, and something you'll hardly find outside Styria.

An old local red grape turned into Schilcher, a pale, very high-acid rosé from the hills south-west of Graz. Bracing and refreshing - an acquired taste, and something you'll hardly find outside Styria.

rosé

Tastes like: Redcurrant, rhubarb, very high acidity

Where it shines: Weststeiermark DAC

Order: A glass of Schilcher with a Styrian cold-cuts platter

Wine comes as an Achterl (125 ml) or a Viertel (250 ml).

By the glass, Austrians order an Achterl (an eighth of a litre) or a Viertel (a quarter). The Achterl is now the norm for quality wine - a good way to try several.

By the glass, Austrians order an Achterl (an eighth of a litre) or a Viertel (a quarter). The Achterl is now the norm for quality wine - a good way to try several.

Tip: 'Ein Achterl Grüner, bitte'

A Gespritzter (wine with sparkling water) is normal, not a faux pas.

Dry wine topped with soda or mineral water is a classic Austrian thirst-quencher, especially in summer and at Heurigen. Order it 'weiß' (white) or 'rot' (red).

Dry wine topped with soda or mineral water is a classic Austrian thirst-quencher, especially in summer and at Heurigen. Order it 'weiß' (white) or 'rot' (red).

Tip: Ask for 'ein weißer Gespritzter'

At a Heuriger you drink the grower's own wine with a cold buffet.

A true Heuriger or Buschenschank serves only its own wine, plus cold dishes such as cured meats, spreads and cheese; some licensed ones add a hot buffet. Small ones open only on set dates, so check before you go.

A true Heuriger or Buschenschank serves only its own wine, plus cold dishes such as cured meats, spreads and cheese; some licensed ones add a hot buffet. Small ones open only on set dates, so check before you go.

Tip: Pick food at the buffet counter; order wine at the table

In Vienna, order Wiener Gemischter Satz - it's the city's own wine.

Vienna's Heurigen and wine bars pour the local field blend by the glass. It's fresh, fragrant and made a few kilometres away - the most Viennese drink there is.

Vienna's Heurigen and wine bars pour the local field blend by the glass. It's fresh, fragrant and made a few kilometres away - the most Viennese drink there is.

Tip: 'Ein Achterl Gemischter Satz'

Autumn treat: Sturm, half-fermented grape juice - cloudy, sweet, fizzy.

For a few weeks after harvest, wine taverns and roadside stands pour Sturm: grape must that has just started fermenting. Sweet, juicy and lightly sparkling - drink it fresh, it doesn't travel.

For a few weeks after harvest, wine taverns and roadside stands pour Sturm: grape must that has just started fermenting. Sweet, juicy and lightly sparkling - drink it fresh, it doesn't travel.

Tip: Look for 'Sturm' signs from late September into October

Crisp Grüner or Riesling cuts through schnitzel and fried food.

High-acid, unoaked whites refresh the palate against breaded, fried and creamy Austrian dishes. Save the fuller Reserve or Smaragd wines for richer roasts, and Blaufränkisch for pork, duck or game.

High-acid, unoaked whites refresh the palate against breaded, fried and creamy Austrian dishes. Save the fuller Reserve or Smaragd wines for richer roasts, and Blaufränkisch for pork, duck or game.

Tip: Light wine with fried food, fuller wine with roasts

Regional Vinothek: many local producers, cellar-door prices, often tastings.

Wine regions run shared wine shops (Gebietsvinothek or regional Vinothek) stocking dozens of local growers. Many sell at farm-gate prices and let you taste for free or a small fee - the best one-stop shop on a short trip.

Wine regions run shared wine shops (Gebietsvinothek or regional Vinothek) stocking dozens of local growers. Many sell at farm-gate prices and let you taste for free or a small fee - the best one-stop shop on a short trip.

Tip: Ask what's showing well from the local village wines

Buy 'ab Hof' - straight from the winery.

Most family estates sell bottles at the winery, usually with set opening hours or by appointment. You'll find single-vineyard wines, older vintages and small bottlings that rarely leave Austria.

Most family estates sell bottles at the winery, usually with set opening hours or by appointment. You'll find single-vineyard wines, older vintages and small bottlings that rarely leave Austria.

Tip: Ask for older vintages of their Ried wines

Kellergassen: village cellar lanes where growers taste and sell.

In Lower Austria, old lanes of press houses and cellars sit at the edge of villages. On open days and at festivals growers pour and sell there - a very local way to buy.

In Lower Austria, old lanes of press houses and cellars sit at the edge of villages. On open days and at festivals growers pour and sell there - a very local way to buy.

Tip: Check the village's open-cellar dates before driving out

Supermarkets: fine for Grüner and Zweigelt staples - closed on Sundays.

Supermarkets carry solid everyday Austrian wine such as Weinviertel Grüner and Zweigelt. Shops close by 6 pm on Saturday and stay shut on Sunday, apart from stations, airports and some petrol stations.

Supermarkets carry solid everyday Austrian wine such as Weinviertel Grüner and Zweigelt. Shops close by 6 pm on Saturday and stay shut on Sunday, apart from stations, airports and some petrol stations.

Tip: Stock up on Saturday

Drink-driving limit 0.5 g/L; 0.1 for probationary drivers - spit or use a driver.

The general blood-alcohol limit is 0.5 g/L. It drops to 0.1 for probationary licence holders, learners and professional drivers, and above 0.8 your licence can be suspended. Spitting at tastings is normal.

The general blood-alcohol limit is 0.5 g/L. It drops to 0.1 for probationary licence holders, learners and professional drivers, and above 0.8 your licence can be suspended. Spitting at tastings is normal.

Tip: Designate a driver or use taxis between Heurigen

Shops close Saturday evening and all Sunday; Heurigen and restaurants stay open.

By law most shops may open 6 am-9 pm on weekdays and until 6 pm on Saturdays, and close on Sundays. Bakeries, station and airport shops are exceptions. Wineries and Heurigen set their own hours.

By law most shops may open 6 am-9 pm on weekdays and until 6 pm on Saturdays, and close on Sundays. Bakeries, station and airport shops are exceptions. Wineries and Heurigen set their own hours.

Tip: Plan cellar-door buying for weekdays or Saturday

Check opening dates: many small Heurigen and wine shops open seasonally.

Smaller Heurigen open only during their 'Aussteckzeiten' (set opening periods), and shop hours change. Check websites or call ahead, and book winery tastings in advance.

Smaller Heurigen open only during their 'Aussteckzeiten' (set opening periods), and shop hours change. Check websites or call ahead, and book winery tastings in advance.

Tip: Look up the Heuriger calendar for the week you travel

Carrying wine home: pack it well or ask about shipping.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Sweet wines usually come in half bottles, the easiest to pack - and the most unusual souvenir.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Sweet wines usually come in half bottles, the easiest to pack - and the most unusual souvenir.

Tip: Pack bottles in checked luggage with wine sleeves

Harvest season (September-October) means Sturm, busy cellars and short visits.

Harvest runs through autumn. It's the season for Sturm and lively Heurigen, but small estates are busy in the vineyard, so book earlier and expect shorter visits.

Harvest runs through autumn. It's the season for Sturm and lively Heurigen, but small estates are busy in the vineyard, so book earlier and expect shorter visits.

Tip: Ask about harvest events when booking