Hungary

Order Kékfrankos: Hungary's juicy, peppery everyday red.

Kékfrankos is the same grape as Austria's Blaufränkisch and the most widely planted red in Hungary. It is cherry-fruited, spicy and fresh, easy with most Hungarian cooking, and good from Szekszárd, Eger and Sopron.

Kékfrankos is the same grape as Austria's Blaufränkisch and the most widely planted red in Hungary. It is cherry-fruited, spicy and fresh, easy with most Hungarian cooking, and good from Szekszárd, Eger and Sopron.

'Bikavér' should be Egri or Szekszárdi - skip the bargain-bin bottles.

Only Eger and Szekszárd can use the Bull's Blood name. Look for the town prefix and a named estate; cheap mass-market Bikavér is a leftover of the old state-run era and not the wine to judge it by.

Only Eger and Szekszárd can use the Bull's Blood name. Look for the town prefix and a named estate; cheap mass-market Bikavér is a leftover of the old state-run era and not the wine to judge it by.

Taste in a wine bar first, then buy the same bottle in a shop.

Hungary has 22 wine regions and few names you will know. A restaurant or wine bar with Hungarian wines by the glass lets you find what you like; the shops then sell the same bottles.

Hungary has 22 wine regions and few names you will know. A restaurant or wine bar with Hungarian wines by the glass lets you find what you like; the shops then sell the same bottles.

Start with five regions: Tokaj, Eger, Villány, Balaton and Somló.

They cover the whole range: sweet and dry Furmint, Bikavér, Cabernet Franc, lake-side Olaszrizling and smoky volcanic Juhfark. The rest of the country adds easy everyday wines and good Kékfrankos.

They cover the whole range: sweet and dry Furmint, Bikavér, Cabernet Franc, lake-side Olaszrizling and smoky volcanic Juhfark. The rest of the country adds easy everyday wines and good Kékfrankos.

Tokaj: volcanic hills, noble-rot sweet wines and serious dry Furmint.

Hungary's best-known region, in the north-east near the Slovak border. It is the national benchmark for sweet wine and the reason Furmint is Hungary's calling-card grape.

Hungary's best-known region, in the north-east near the Slovak border. It is the national benchmark for sweet wine and the reason Furmint is Hungary's calling-card grape.

Tokaj

Style: Volcanic whites from Furmint and Hárslevelű, sweet and dry

Look for: Tokaji Aszú, Dry Furmint, Szamorodni

Eger and Upper Hungary: Bull's Blood country and aromatic white blends.

Eger, north-east of Budapest, is the home of Egri Bikavér and the white blend Egri Csillag, and its red production far outweighs its white. The baroque town has a long cellar district; neighbouring Mátra and Bükk make lighter, everyday wines.

Eger, north-east of Budapest, is the home of Egri Bikavér and the white blend Egri Csillag, and its red production far outweighs its white. The baroque town has a long cellar district; neighbouring Mátra and Bükk make lighter, everyday wines.

Eger · Mátra · Bükk

Style: Kékfrankos-led reds and Bikavér; aromatic whites

Look for: Egri Bikavér, Egri Csillag, Eger Kadarka

The warm south: Villány's Cabernet Franc and Szekszárd's Kadarka and Bikavér.

Near the Croatian border, Villány is sunny and sheltered, and Cabernet Franc is its signature red with consistently high quality. Szekszárd nearby is softer and more fragrant, with Kadarka, Kékfrankos and its own Bikavér.

Near the Croatian border, Villány is sunny and sheltered, and Cabernet Franc is its signature red with consistently high quality. Szekszárd nearby is softer and more fragrant, with Kadarka, Kékfrankos and its own Bikavér.

Villány · Szekszárd · Pécs · Tolna

Style: Warm-climate structured reds; Szekszárd is silkier and spicier

Look for: Villány Cabernet Franc, Szekszárdi Bikavér, Szekszárd Kadarka, Kékfrankos

Lake Balaton: breezy lakeside whites led by Olaszrizling.

Vineyards ring both shores of Central Europe's largest lake. Olaszrizling is the most planted white; Riesling, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and the rare Kéknyelű add range. Expect fresh, often salty-mineral whites from the volcanic north shore.

Vineyards ring both shores of Central Europe's largest lake. Olaszrizling is the most planted white; Riesling, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and the rare Kéknyelű add range. Expect fresh, often salty-mineral whites from the volcanic north shore.

Badacsony · Balaton-Felvidék · Balaton-Csopak · Balatonboglár · Zala

Style: Fresh, mineral whites; light reds in the south

Look for: Csopak Olaszrizling, Badacsony Kéknyelű, Balaton Pinot Gris

Somló: tiny extinct-volcano hill making smoky, long-lived whites.

Hungary's smallest wine region sits on volcanic soils west of the lake. Juhfark, Furmint, Hárslevelű and Olaszrizling give full, mineral, salty whites that improve with bottle age.

Hungary's smallest wine region sits on volcanic soils west of the lake. Juhfark, Furmint, Hárslevelű and Olaszrizling give full, mineral, salty whites that improve with bottle age.

Nagy-Somló

Style: Mineral, structured volcanic whites

Look for: Juhfark, Somló Furmint, Somlói Arany

Hills west of Budapest: cool-climate Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot.

Etyek-Buda, Mór, Neszmély and Pannonhalma are the nearest vineyards to the capital. They lean towards fresh whites, with Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Chardonnay, plus some Pinot Noir; Mór is mostly white.

Etyek-Buda, Mór, Neszmély and Pannonhalma are the nearest vineyards to the capital. They lean towards fresh whites, with Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Chardonnay, plus some Pinot Noir; Mór is mostly white.

Etyek-Buda · Mór · Neszmély · Pannonhalma

Style: Fresh whites and some Pinot Noir

Look for: Etyek Sauvignon Blanc, Mór white wines, Pannonhalma Riesling

Sopron: Kékfrankos country on the Austrian border.

Sopron is best known for red wine from Kékfrankos, with Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and Merlot too. It is the Hungarian cousin of Austrian Burgenland.

Sopron is best known for red wine from Kékfrankos, with Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and Merlot too. It is the Hungarian cousin of Austrian Burgenland.

Sopron

Style: Fruity to structured Kékfrankos reds

Look for: Sopron Kékfrankos

The Great Plain: flat, sandy land for everyday wine.

Kunság, Hajós-Baja and Csongrád produce much of Hungary's easy-drinking wine. The aromatic, light Kunság whites are the ones you meet most often, often in a spritzer.

Kunság, Hajós-Baja and Csongrád produce much of Hungary's easy-drinking wine. The aromatic, light Kunság whites are the ones you meet most often, often in a spritzer.

Kunság · Hajós-Baja · Csongrád

Style: Easy, fruity everyday whites and reds

Look for: Kunság aromatic whites, Kunság Kékfrankos

Read producer, then grape or style, then region, then PDO or DHC.

Hungarian labels usually name the winery (pince or borház), the grape or blend, and the wine region. A PDO or DHC mark and a regional name such as Egri or Villányi sit beside it.

Hungarian labels usually name the winery (pince or borház), the grape or blend, and the wine region. A PDO or DHC mark and a regional name such as Egri or Villányi sit beside it.

Tip: Order: producer, grape, region, PDO/DHC mark

A place-name prefix tells you the style: Egri, Szekszárdi, Somlói, Tokaji.

Hungarian regional adjectives end in -i. The prefix names the region and often a DHC style, as in Egri Bikavér, Szekszárdi Bikavér, Somlói Arany or Tokaji Aszú.

Hungarian regional adjectives end in -i. The prefix names the region and often a DHC style, as in Egri Bikavér, Szekszárdi Bikavér, Somlói Arany or Tokaji Aszú.

Tip: Look for the -i regional adjective before the style name

Colour and sweetness words are in Hungarian: fehér, vörös, száraz, édes.

Learn four words and you can read any shelf: fehér white, vörös red, száraz dry, édes sweet. The back label usually repeats them in English for export bottles.

Learn four words and you can read any shelf: fehér white, vörös red, száraz dry, édes sweet. The back label usually repeats them in English for export bottles.

Tip: Four words: fehér, vörös, száraz, édes

PDO (OEM): Hungary's top origin tier and the one to look for.

Wine from a defined place under the strictest rules on grapes, yields and ageing. The region sits in the name: Tokaji, Egri, Villányi, Somlói. The Hungarian is oltalom alatt álló eredetmegjelölés, shortened to OEM.

Wine from a defined place under the strictest rules on grapes, yields and ageing. The region sits in the name: Tokaji, Egri, Villányi, Somlói. The Hungarian is oltalom alatt álló eredetmegjelölés, shortened to OEM.

Top origin tier with the strictest regional rules

Spot it: 'PDO' or 'OEM' on the label, plus a region-based name

DHC: a voluntary stricter regional tier inside PDO.

Regions can write tighter rules for a signature style and apply for DHC (Districtus Hungaricus Controllatus, also called VEB). Egri Bikavér, Somlói Arany, the Tokaji sweet styles and Villány's quality ladder are examples. A DHC name promises a defined local style.

Regions can write tighter rules for a signature style and apply for DHC (Districtus Hungaricus Controllatus, also called VEB). Egri Bikavér, Somlói Arany, the Tokaji sweet styles and Villány's quality ladder are examples. A DHC name promises a defined local style.

Regional signature style with stricter local rules

Spot it: 'DHC', 'VEB' or a style name such as Egri Bikavér

PGI (földrajzi jelzés): broader regional wine with looser rules.

The middle step of the EU ladder. Origin is stated but the rules mostly cover where grapes grow, not how the wine is made. Fine for everyday drinking, rarely where the stars are.

The middle step of the EU ladder. Origin is stated but the rules mostly cover where grapes grow, not how the wine is made. Fine for everyday drinking, rarely where the stars are.

Regional wine with looser rules

Spot it: 'PGI' or 'földrajzi jelzés' on the label, with a wider area name

Bor / Magyar Bor: basic wine from anywhere in Hungary.

The entry tier, formerly called table wine. No region is promised. Cheap, simple and fine for a fröccs, not the bottle to carry home.

The entry tier, formerly called table wine. No region is promised. Cheap, simple and fine for a fröccs, not the bottle to carry home.

Basic wine with no regional claim

Spot it: No PDO, PGI or region on the label; just 'Bor' or 'Magyar Bor'

Bikavér ('Bull's Blood'): a Kékfrankos-led red blend from Eger or Szekszárd only.

A dry red cuvée that is always a blend. Eger's is the famous one, usually Kékfrankos with other local and international reds; Szekszárd makes its own version. Quality runs from simple to very serious, so the estate matters.

A dry red cuvée that is always a blend. Eger's is the famous one, usually Kékfrankos with other local and international reds; Szekszárd makes its own version. Quality runs from simple to very serious, so the estate matters.

Eger or Szekszárd red blend, Kékfrankos-led

Watch out: Cheap mass-market bottles are the weak end; choose a named estate

Classicus, Superior, Grand Superior: Eger's Bikavér ladder - riper and oakier each step.

In Eger the ladder runs Classicus (lighter, everyday), Superior (fuller, oak-aged) and Grand Superior (same, but from a named site). Villány runs a different ladder: Classicus, Premium, Super Premium. Classicus suits casual meals; the upper rungs suit slow dinners.

In Eger the ladder runs Classicus (lighter, everyday), Superior (fuller, oak-aged) and Grand Superior (same, but from a named site). Villány runs a different ladder: Classicus, Premium, Super Premium. Classicus suits casual meals; the upper rungs suit slow dinners.

Quality steps within a regional DHC

Watch out: The same word can mean a different step in a different region

A white crocus logo marks Villány's regional quality wines.

Villány wines that pass the regional tasting committee can carry the crocus mark; the Premium tier shows it. It is a quick guide to which bottles meet the local standard.

Villány wines that pass the regional tasting committee can carry the crocus mark; the Premium tier shows it. It is a quick guide to which bottles meet the local standard.

Villány regional quality mark

Watch out: Not every good Villány producer uses it; the estate still matters

Száraz dry, félszáraz off-dry, édes sweet.

The sweetness words you will see on white wine. Most bottles are száraz. Sweet Tokaji is édes and comes in a slim 50 cl bottle.

The sweetness words you will see on white wine. Most bottles are száraz. Sweet Tokaji is édes and comes in a slim 50 cl bottle.

Dry / off-dry / sweet

Watch out: An aromatic white can smell sweet and still be száraz

Fehér white, vörös red, rosé rosé, siller a pale red.

Colour words on menus and shelves. Siller is a light, deep-pink to pale-red style, often made from Kékfrankos.

Colour words on menus and shelves. Siller is a light, deep-pink to pale-red style, often made from Kékfrankos.

White / red / rosé / pale red

Watch out: Siller is a style rather than a quality level

Olaszrizling is not Riesling; true Riesling is Rajnai rizling.

Olaszrizling is the Hungarian name for Welschriesling, an unrelated grape. If you want the real thing, look for Rajnai rizling or 'Riesling'. Both make good lake-side whites, in different styles.

Olaszrizling is the Hungarian name for Welschriesling, an unrelated grape. If you want the real thing, look for Rajnai rizling or 'Riesling'. Both make good lake-side whites, in different styles.

Welschriesling vs Riesling

Watch out: Do not expect Riesling's sharp petrol edge from Olaszrizling

Single-grape DHC names: Debrői Hárslevelű, Soltvadkerti Ezerjó, Izsáki Arany Sárfehér.

Some small Hungarian places protect one grape and one style. The place name plus grape tells you exactly what is in the bottle.

Alongside the big regional names, a handful of smaller places have a DHC for a single grape. Debrői Hárslevelű is white Hárslevelű only; Izsáki Arany Sárfehér is the same for the white Arany Sárfehér; Soltvadkerti Ezerjó covers white and sparkling Ezerjó. Somlói Arany is a named style of Somló. These are voluntary, local and narrow, so they will not appear on most shelves, but they are a good way to taste a grape the way its home town intends. If a wine bar lists one, it is usually there because the owner cares about local style. Check the label for the place-name prefix and ask for a glass.

Place name + one grape, with local style rules

Watch out: Narrow and rare; often only sold near the source

Eger vs Szekszárd Bikavér: oak and structure vs perfume and spice.

Both can be called Bikavér. Eger's is broader and often oakier; Szekszárd's leans on Kadarka and is silkier.

Eger and Szekszárd are the only places that can call a red blend Bikavér, and they make it differently. Eger permits a wide list of varieties with Kékfrankos leading: Kadarka, Zweigelt, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir and the two Cabernets, which are capped together. That gives a range from the lighter Classicus to oak-aged, concentrated Superior and the single-site Grand Superior. Szekszárd builds its Bikavér around Kékfrankos and Kadarka, so it tends to be more fragrant and spicy, with soft tannins and lively acidity. Kadarka was the historic backbone of Bull's Blood before Kékfrankos and Bordeaux varieties took over in the communist era; it is still permitted and adds spice and earthiness. At a restaurant, the town prefix tells you the style: Egri for structure and oak, Szekszárdi for perfume.

Two regional versions of Bull's Blood

Watch out: Compare the estate, not just the prefix

Furmint: high-acid, mineral white - Tokaj's star, also great in Somló and Balaton.

Crisp and stony with apple and citrus, richer and nuttier from volcanic soils or oak. Tokaj is its home, but good dry Furmint also comes from Somló and around Lake Balaton.

Crisp and stony with apple and citrus, richer and nuttier from volcanic soils or oak. Tokaj is its home, but good dry Furmint also comes from Somló and around Lake Balaton.

white

Tastes like: Green apple, lime, quince, smoke; nuts and honey with age

Where it shines: Tokaj, Somló, Balaton

Order: A dry Furmint from Somló or Tokaj with chicken paprikash

Hárslevelű ('linden leaf'): softer, floral, spicy white.

Rounder than Furmint, with linden-blossom, honey and pear. It blends in Tokaj and Eger's white blends and is bottled alone in several places, including its own single-grape Debrő name.

Rounder than Furmint, with linden-blossom, honey and pear. It blends in Tokaj and Eger's white blends and is bottled alone in several places, including its own single-grape Debrő name.

white

Tastes like: Linden blossom, honey, pear, light spice

Where it shines: Tokaj, Eger, Somló

Order: A dry Hárslevelű with creamy or paprika-rich dishes

Olaszrizling: easy, almond-edged white and Balaton's mainstay.

Hungary's Welschriesling is soft in acidity, light to medium in body and a little almond-like. Csopak versions can be single-vineyard and complex; Somló and Badacsony versions are more mineral.

Hungary's Welschriesling is soft in acidity, light to medium in body and a little almond-like. Csopak versions can be single-vineyard and complex; Somló and Badacsony versions are more mineral.

white

Tastes like: Green apple, almond, light citrus; mineral on volcanic soils

Where it shines: Balaton (Csopak), Somló, Kunság

Order: A Csopak Olaszrizling with lake fish

Juhfark: a rare, salty, long-lived white from Somló.

Not aromatic, but full-bodied, dry and structured, with lemon, smoke and wheat notes on a mineral frame. Give it several years in bottle for a honeyed, complex taste.

Not aromatic, but full-bodied, dry and structured, with lemon, smoke and wheat notes on a mineral frame. Give it several years in bottle for a honeyed, complex taste.

white

Tastes like: Lemon, smoke, wheat, salty minerality

Where it shines: Somló

Order: A Somló Juhfark with a few years in bottle, with roast chicken or fish

Kéknyelű: Badacsony's rare, salty-mineral white.

A local rarity grown on the Badacsony hill. Expect a firm, mineral, salty white that needs time and food.

A local rarity grown on the Badacsony hill. Expect a firm, mineral, salty white that needs time and food.

white

Tastes like: Citrus, stone, salty minerality

Where it shines: Badacsony

Order: A Badacsony Kéknyelű with lake fish

Kékfrankos: cherry, spice and fresh acidity - Hungary's most planted red.

The Austrian Blaufränkisch, medium-bodied with sour cherry, pepper and crisp acidity. It ranges from fruity and refreshing to structured and age-worthy, and also makes rosé, siller and sparkling wine.

The Austrian Blaufränkisch, medium-bodied with sour cherry, pepper and crisp acidity. It ranges from fruity and refreshing to structured and age-worthy, and also makes rosé, siller and sparkling wine.

red

Tastes like: Sour cherry, pepper, crisp acidity

Where it shines: Szekszárd, Eger, Sopron, Villány

Order: A Szekszárd or Sopron Kékfrankos with stews and grilled meat

Kadarka: the old Carpathian red - light, spicy, perfumed.

A hard-to-grow native red with soft tannins, red berries and spice. Best from Szekszárd and Eger and now making a comeback.

Kadarka is the Carpathian Basin's own red grape, said in Szekszárd to have been brought by Serbian settlers in the 16th century, and it was that town's flagship through the 19th century. It ripens late, is difficult in the vineyard, and gave ground in the late 20th century to Kékfrankos and Bordeaux varieties. It also anchored early Bull's Blood. In the glass it is the opposite of a heavy red: light in colour, soft in tannin, with red berry fruit, sweet spice and lively acidity, and the best examples show real perfume. A growing group of growers now bottle it alone, and it is a true local find. Look for Kadarka from Szekszárd or Eger, and drink it with lighter meat dishes or slightly chilled on a warm day.

red

Tastes like: Red berries, sweet spice, soft tannin, fresh acidity

Where it shines: Szekszárd, Eger

Order: A Szekszárd Kadarka with roast duck or paprika dishes

Cabernet Franc: Villány's signature - blackcurrant, fruitcake and a long finish.

In the warm south, with sunny days and sheltered hills, Cabernet Franc gives structured, fruitier reds with only light green notes. It is the grape behind Villány's top bottlings and the priciest red on most lists.

In the warm south, with sunny days and sheltered hills, Cabernet Franc gives structured, fruitier reds with only light green notes. It is the grape behind Villány's top bottlings and the priciest red on most lists.

red

Tastes like: Blackcurrant, raspberry, fruitcake, light herbal edge

Where it shines: Villány, Szekszárd

Order: A Villány Cabernet Franc with game or grilled meat

Zweigelt: juicy, soft cherry red for everyday.

A cross grown across Hungary, producing supple, fruity wines with soft tannin. It also appears in Bikavér blends and in Sopron.

A cross grown across Hungary, producing supple, fruity wines with soft tannin. It also appears in Bikavér blends and in Sopron.

red

Tastes like: Cherry, bramble, soft tannin

Where it shines: Sopron, Eger, nationwide

Order: A glass of Zweigelt with a simple grill

Irsai Olivér and Cserszegi Fűszeres: aromatic, easy whites made for summer.

Young, grapey and floral crossings that are fruity and low in fuss. They are the classic wines for a fröccs and a good bargain on a hot day.

Young, grapey and floral crossings that are fruity and low in fuss. They are the classic wines for a fröccs and a good bargain on a hot day.

white

Tastes like: Fresh grapes, flowers, light spice

Where it shines: Kunság, Balaton, nationwide

Order: Either one chilled, or in a fröccs

Bikavér: Kékfrankos-led red blend with spice, dark fruit and fresh acidity.

Not a grape but Hungary's best-known red. Fiery, full-bodied and spicy with dark forest fruit and good acidity; Eger's and Szekszárd's versions differ.

Not a grape but Hungary's best-known red. Fiery, full-bodied and spicy with dark forest fruit and good acidity; Eger's and Szekszárd's versions differ.

red

Tastes like: Dark forest fruit, spice, firm tannin, fresh acidity

Where it shines: Eger, Szekszárd

Order: An Egri or Szekszárdi Bikavér from a named estate

Wine by the glass is priced per decilitre; ask for the measure.

Hungarian lists often price wine by the deci (1 dl, about a small glass), so check the measure before ordering a 'glass'. A bottle is usually the better deal for two.

Hungarian lists often price wine by the deci (1 dl, about a small glass), so check the measure before ordering a 'glass'. A bottle is usually the better deal for two.

Tip: Ask 'hány deci?' (how many decilitres?) before ordering by the glass

Check before you go — details here may have changed.

Order a fröccs: wine and soda water, the national summer drink.

A kisfröccs is wine and soda in equal parts, a nagyfröccs is two parts wine to one soda. Use young, fruity whites; it comes in a plain tall glass without garnish.

A kisfröccs is wine and soda in equal parts, a nagyfröccs is two parts wine to one soda. Use young, fruity whites; it comes in a plain tall glass without garnish.

Tip: Say 'egy kisfröccs, kérem' or 'egy nagyfröccs, kérem'

The drinks list is the 'itallap'; menus are often in English.

Étlap is the food menu, itallap the drink list. Most Budapest restaurants also offer English or German menus, so you can rely on those and use the Hungarian only for wine names.

Étlap is the food menu, itallap the drink list. Most Budapest restaurants also offer English or German menus, so you can rely on those and use the Hungarian only for wine names.

Tip: Ask for the itallap

On a list, Szekszárdi Bikavér and Kékfrankos are the value picks.

Villány reds are excellent but pricier. Szekszárdi Bikavér and good Kékfrankos give a more local taste for less.

Villány reds are excellent but pricier. Szekszárdi Bikavér and good Kékfrankos give a more local taste for less.

Tip: Ask which Bikavér is house favourite

Pick Hungarian pezsgő for celebrations instead of Champagne.

Törley is the best-known Hungarian sparkling house and it is widely available; Tokaj and Balaton growers make their own bottle-fermented versions for a more local toast.

Törley is the best-known Hungarian sparkling house and it is widely available; Tokaj and Balaton growers make their own bottle-fermented versions for a more local toast.

Tip: Ask for 'magyar pezsgő'

Budapest wine bars pour dozens of Hungarian wines by the glass.

A good wine bar such as Borbíróság by the Great Market Hall lists nearly 100 Hungarian wines by the glass, served with local food. It is the easiest place to compare regions in one evening.

A good wine bar such as Borbíróság by the Great Market Hall lists nearly 100 Hungarian wines by the glass, served with local food. It is the easiest place to compare regions in one evening.

Tip: Order a flight across regions: Furmint, Kékfrankos, Kadarka

Bortársaság: Hungary's biggest wine-shop chain, with tastings.

A long-established network with several Budapest branches and mall outlets. It offers short guided tastings of local wines and is a safe place to compare regions.

A long-established network with several Budapest branches and mall outlets. It offers short guided tastings of local wines and is a safe place to compare regions.

Tip: Book a one-hour tasting of three wines

Borháló: a large Budapest shop covering all wine regions.

Known for broad regional coverage, tastings and wine dinners, plus knowledgeable staff at fair prices.

Known for broad regional coverage, tastings and wine dinners, plus knowledgeable staff at fair prices.

Tip: Ask for one wine from each region you are visiting

Domus Vinorum: a wine shop in a cellar museum, with about 200 wines.

A central Budapest shop with a small wine museum in the cellars. Advance booking is required.

A central Budapest shop with a small wine museum in the cellars. Advance booking is required.

Tip: Book ahead

Borbázis: 1000+ Hungarian wines in the ruin-bar district.

A wine shop on Király utca, right in the busy ruin-bar district, with over a thousand Hungarian wines. Good for a bottle between bars.

A wine shop on Király utca, right in the busy ruin-bar district, with over a thousand Hungarian wines. Good for a bottle between bars.

Tip: Ask for a Kadarka or a Furmint

Buy direct at the winery: the cellar door has the best range and price.

Estates in every region sell from the cellar (pince) and often pour a tasting. You will find single-site wines and older vintages that rarely reach shops.

Estates in every region sell from the cellar (pince) and often pour a tasting. You will find single-site wines and older vintages that rarely reach shops.

Tip: Call ahead; many small cellars open by appointment

Hungary has zero tolerance for drink-driving: use a driver or taxi.

The legal blood-alcohol limit for drivers is 0.00. Even a small amount can bring fines. Book a driver, take a taxi, or spit at tastings.

The legal blood-alcohol limit for drivers is 0.00. Even a small amount can bring fines. Book a driver, take a taxi, or spit at tastings.

Tip: Plan a driver or taxi for cellar visits

Cellar rows are the heart of the wine villages.

Many regions cluster their cellars together: Eger has a long cellar district, Villány's are dug into the hillsides and Tokaj's lie underground. Walk the rows and taste in several in an afternoon.

Many regions cluster their cellars together: Eger has a long cellar district, Villány's are dug into the hillsides and Tokaj's lie underground. Walk the rows and taste in several in an afternoon.

Tip: Plan on a cellar-row afternoon in Eger, Villány or Tokaj

Many wine shops close on Sundays, and some on Saturdays.

Check opening hours before you plan a shopping stop, especially at weekends. Wine bars and restaurants are open.

Check opening hours before you plan a shopping stop, especially at weekends. Wine bars and restaurants are open.

Tip: Buy on weekdays

Book ahead for tastings and cellar tours.

Popular wine shops, restaurants such as Bock Bistro, and cellar visits like Törley fill up. Booking by phone or email is the norm.

Popular wine shops, restaurants such as Bock Bistro, and cellar visits like Törley fill up. Booking by phone or email is the norm.

Tip: Book ahead for anything with a tasting

Time a trip around the wine festivals.

Budapest's international wine festival runs on the second weekend of September, and Villány holds a red-wine festival in autumn.

Budapest's international wine festival runs on the second weekend of September, and Villány holds a red-wine festival in autumn.

Tip: Check festival dates before booking

Motorways need an electronic vignette.

Most motorways and expressways in Hungary require an e-vignette, which replaces toll booths. Confirm with your car-hire company that it is included.

Most motorways and expressways in Hungary require an e-vignette, which replaces toll booths. Confirm with your car-hire company that it is included.

Tip: Check the vignette before leaving the city