Portugal

Portugal over-delivers: a small step up in price buys a lot of wine.

Portugal is one of Europe's best-value wine countries. Skip the cheapest shelf and spend a little more on a named producer from Douro, Dão, Bairrada or Alentejo - that is where quality jumps.

Portugal is one of Europe's best-value wine countries. Skip the cheapest shelf and spend a little more on a named producer from Douro, Dão, Bairrada or Alentejo - that is where quality jumps.

Don't dismiss 'Vinho Regional' - many top estates use it by choice.

Plenty of excellent Portuguese wines sit in the regional tier because the producer blends grapes or areas the DOC rules don't allow. Read the producer's name before the tier.

Plenty of excellent Portuguese wines sit in the regional tier because the producer blends grapes or areas the DOC rules don't allow. Read the producer's name before the tier.

Blends are the norm - choose by region and producer, not grape.

Most Portuguese reds and many whites are blends of local grapes, sometimes old mixed vineyards. Don't hunt for a familiar grape name; pick a good region and a good house.

Most Portuguese reds and many whites are blends of local grapes, sometimes old mixed vineyards. Don't hunt for a familiar grape name; pick a good region and a good house.

Minho (north-west): Vinho Verde - fresh, light whites and Alvarinho.

Green, rainy, Atlantic country. Vinho Verde ranges from light, low-alcohol, faintly fizzy whites to fuller, age-worthy Alvarinho, with Monção e Melgaço near the Spanish border the benchmark sub-region. There is also an inky, tart red.

Green, rainy, Atlantic country. Vinho Verde ranges from light, low-alcohol, faintly fizzy whites to fuller, age-worthy Alvarinho, with Monção e Melgaço near the Spanish border the benchmark sub-region. There is also an inky, tart red.

Minho

Style: Crisp, light whites; richer Alvarinho; tart reds

Look for: Vinho Verde, Vinho Verde Alvarinho, Loureiro, Vinhão (red)

Douro & Trás-os-Montes: Port and powerful dry reds from steep schist terraces.

The Douro valley is the home of Port and, increasingly, of serious dry reds and fresh high-altitude whites from the same native grapes. Trás-os-Montes to the north is wilder and much less known.

The Douro valley is the home of Port and, increasingly, of serious dry reds and fresh high-altitude whites from the same native grapes. Trás-os-Montes to the north is wilder and much less known.

Douro · Trás-os-Montes

Style: Port; structured dry reds; mountain whites

Look for: Port, Douro DOC red, Douro DOC white, Moscatel do Douro

Douro guide

Beiras: Dão's elegant reds, Bairrada's Baga and sparkling.

Central Portugal's hills. Dão makes fresh, fine-boned reds from Touriga Nacional and textured Encruzado whites; Bairrada near the coast gives tannic Baga reds and most of the country's sparkling wine.

Central Portugal's hills. Dão makes fresh, fine-boned reds from Touriga Nacional and textured Encruzado whites; Bairrada near the coast gives tannic Baga reds and most of the country's sparkling wine.

Dão · Bairrada · Beira Interior · Távora-Varosa

Style: Elegant reds, structured Baga, traditional-method sparkling

Look for: Dão tinto, Dão Encruzado, Bairrada Baga, Bairrada espumante

Lisboa & Tejo: easy-drinking value, plus two historic curiosities.

A long Atlantic strip north of the capital and the Tejo river plain behind it, making lots of fruity, good-value wine. Look out for crisp Arinto from Bucelas and the rare sand-grown reds of Colares.

A long Atlantic strip north of the capital and the Tejo river plain behind it, making lots of fruity, good-value wine. Look out for crisp Arinto from Bucelas and the rare sand-grown reds of Colares.

Lisboa · Tejo

Style: Fruity, early-drinking reds and whites; zesty Arinto

Look for: Bucelas (Arinto), Colares, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Tejo

Setúbal Peninsula: soft Castelão reds and sweet Moscatel de Setúbal.

Just south of Lisbon across the river. Castelão makes supple everyday reds around Palmela, and the area's famous fortified Moscatel is sweet, orange-peel scented and great value.

Just south of Lisbon across the river. Castelão makes supple everyday reds around Palmela, and the area's famous fortified Moscatel is sweet, orange-peel scented and great value.

Península de Setúbal

Style: Soft reds; fortified Moscatel

Look for: Palmela, Moscatel de Setúbal, Moscatel Roxo

Alentejo & Algarve: warm, ripe, generous reds and clay-pot talha wine.

Rolling hot plains, cork oaks and big estates. Alentejo reds are soft, ripe and fruity, whites rounder; the cooler north is fresher. Ancient clay-amphora talha wine is a living tradition here. The Algarve to the south is small and warm.

Rolling hot plains, cork oaks and big estates. Alentejo reds are soft, ripe and fruity, whites rounder; the cooler north is fresher. Ancient clay-amphora talha wine is a living tradition here. The Algarve to the south is small and warm.

Alentejo · Algarve

Style: Ripe, soft reds; rounder whites; amphora wines

Look for: Alentejo DOC, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Vinho de Talha

Islands: Madeira's long-lived fortified and the Azores' salty volcanic whites.

Madeira makes a heated, oxidative fortified wine that lasts for decades once opened. On the Azores, especially Pico, vines grow inside black lava-stone walls and give tense, saline whites.

Madeira makes a heated, oxidative fortified wine that lasts for decades once opened. On the Azores, especially Pico, vines grow inside black lava-stone walls and give tense, saline whites.

Madeira · Azores

Style: Fortified Madeira; mineral Atlantic whites

Look for: Madeira (Sercial to Malvasia), Pico whites (Arinto dos Açores, Verdelho)

Read region first, then producer, then the quality word.

The region (a DOC or a Vinho Regional name) is usually prominent; next find the producer, then words like Reserva or Garrafeira. Tinto is red, Branco white, Rosado rosé.

The region (a DOC or a Vinho Regional name) is usually prominent; next find the producer, then words like Reserva or Garrafeira. Tinto is red, Branco white, Rosado rosé.

Tip: Order of reading: region, producer, colour, quality term

Check the back-label seal: it proves the tier.

The regional commission's seal on the back label shows whether the wine was certified as DOC or Vinho Regional. A bottle with only the national institute's seal carries no regional indication.

The regional commission's seal on the back label shows whether the wine was certified as DOC or Vinho Regional. A bottle with only the national institute's seal carries no regional indication.

Tip: DO seal = DOC; IG seal = Vinho Regional; IVV-only seal = plain Vinho

Same place, two names: DOC versus regional (Douro vs Duriense).

Most regions have a DOC name and a wider regional name: Douro and Duriense, Alentejo and Alentejano, Dão and Terras do Dão, Vinho Verde and Minho. Both can be good; the regional one just has looser rules.

Most regions have a DOC name and a wider regional name: Douro and Duriense, Alentejo and Alentejano, Dão and Terras do Dão, Vinho Verde and Minho. Both can be good; the regional one just has looser rules.

Tip: Learn the pair for the region you visit

A 'Reserva' on a cheap bottle promises little - the producer matters more.

Portuguese Reserva is a light-touch term. On inexpensive regional wine it can be marketing; a good house's standard wine is often the better buy.

Portuguese Reserva is a light-touch term. On inexpensive regional wine it can be marketing; a good house's standard wine is often the better buy.

Tip: Judge Reserva by who made it, not by the word

One grape, several names: Tinta Roriz = Aragonez = Tempranillo.

Portuguese grapes change names by region: Tinta Roriz (north) and Aragonez (south) are Tempranillo, Castelão is also Periquita, Trincadeira is Tinta Amarela, Fernão Pires is Maria Gomes, Jaen is Mencía.

Portuguese grapes change names by region: Tinta Roriz (north) and Aragonez (south) are Tempranillo, Castelão is also Periquita, Trincadeira is Tinta Amarela, Fernão Pires is Maria Gomes, Jaen is Mencía.

Tip: If a grape name looks new, it may be an old friend

DOC: Portugal's top legal tier - a named region with set rules.

Each DOC fixes its area, permitted grapes and yields, and the regional commission tests the wine before it gets its seal. It promises origin and typicity, not greatness.

Each DOC fixes its area, permitted grapes and yields, and the regional commission tests the wine before it gets its seal. It promises origin and typicity, not greatness.

Controlled designation of origin: defined area, grapes and rules

Spot it: 'Denominação de Origem Controlada' or 'DOC' with the region name; DO seal on the back label

Vinho Regional: wider regions, looser rules - often excellent.

The grapes come mainly from the named region, but producers may use more varieties, including international ones, and blend more freely. Ambitious estates often choose it.

The grapes come mainly from the named region, but producers may use more varieties, including international ones, and blend more freely. Ambitious estates often choose it.

Regional wine with flexible rules

Spot it: 'Vinho Regional' plus a regional name such as Alentejano, Lisboa, Tejo, Duriense or Minho

Vinho: no region named - basic everyday wine.

The base tier, which replaced the old 'vinho de mesa'. Fine for a picnic or sangria, rarely worth carrying home.

The base tier, which replaced the old 'vinho de mesa'. Fine for a picnic or sangria, rarely worth carrying home.

Wine without a geographic indication

Spot it: No DOC or Vinho Regional on the label; only the national institute's seal

EU labels say DOP and IGP; Portuguese labels keep DOC and Vinho Regional.

DOC equals the EU's DOP (protected origin) and Vinho Regional equals IGP. Both forms appear on labels, and the back-label seal tells you which tier was certified.

Portugal's ladder sits inside the EU system: DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada) maps to DOP, and Vinho Regional maps to IGP, sometimes printed simply as IG. The two layers overlap - the Douro DOC sits inside the Duriense regional area, Alentejo DOC inside Alentejano - so the same estate can make both. Certification is run by regional commissions, and the seal they issue on the back label is the real proof of tier; wines with only the national institute's seal carry no geographic indication. A notable number of serious producers stay outside the DOCs on purpose, because they blend across regions, use grapes or styles the rules don't allow, or would rather not submit to tasting panels. So the tier tells you about rules and paperwork; the producer tells you about quality.

EU names for the same tiers

Spot it: 'DOP' or 'IGP'/'IG' instead of, or next to, the Portuguese term

Reserva: a single-vintage wine a step above the standard bottling.

Reserva marks a single-vintage wine the certifying body has approved as a step above the producer's standard bottling. How long it was aged is up to the producer, so it is a modest promise.

Reserva marks a single-vintage wine the certifying body has approved as a step above the producer's standard bottling. How long it was aged is up to the producer, so it is a modest promise.

Vintage wine a step above the standard bottling

Watch out: Not as strictly defined as Spain's Reserva - judge by producer, especially on cheap regional wines

Grande Reserva / Colheita Selecionada: the producer's top tier, vintage-dated.

Both mean a stated vintage, approved by the certifying body, from riper, more concentrated grapes than Reserva. Producers usually reserve them for their best lots.

Both mean a stated vintage, approved by the certifying body, from riper, more concentrated grapes than Reserva. Producers usually reserve them for their best lots.

Higher-tier vintage wine, riper than Reserva

Watch out: Expect a riper, often oaky wine built to age

Garrafeira: long-aged before release, partly in bottle - mellow on arrival.

A vintage wine aged for years in cask and then in bottle before it is sold. Traditionally a merchant's selected old reserve - often mellow and savoury on release.

A vintage wine aged for years in cask and then in bottle before it is sold. Traditionally a merchant's selected old reserve - often mellow and savoury on release.

Vintage wine with long aging, part of it in bottle

Watch out: The same word also means a wine shop

Colheita: the vintage year - but on Port it means aged tawny.

On a table wine, colheita simply means harvest or vintage. On a Port label it names a single-vintage tawny aged for many years in cask - a very different, nutty, oxidative style.

On a table wine, colheita simply means harvest or vintage. On a Port label it names a single-vintage tawny aged for many years in cask - a very different, nutty, oxidative style.

Vintage / harvest year

Watch out: Colheita Port is a wood-aged tawny, not a Vintage Port

Quinta (north) or Herdade (south): a wine estate.

Quinta is the usual word for a farm estate in the north, Herdade for the large estates of the south. Seeing either usually points to a single-property wine rather than a blend from bought grapes.

Quinta is the usual word for a farm estate in the north, Herdade for the large estates of the south. Seeing either usually points to a single-property wine rather than a blend from bought grapes.

Wine estate

Watch out: Some brands use 'Quinta' as a name; check it's estate-grown on the back label

Adega Cooperativa: a growers' co-operative winery.

Many small growers deliver grapes to a shared winery. Co-ops make a large share of everyday Portuguese wine; the better ones are reliable, fairly priced sources of local styles.

Many small growers deliver grapes to a shared winery. Co-ops make a large share of everyday Portuguese wine; the better ones are reliable, fairly priced sources of local styles.

Co-operative winery

Watch out: Quality varies by co-op - the region guide names the good ones

'Engarrafado na origem' means bottled where the wine was made.

Engarrafado means bottled; 'na origem' or 'pelo produtor' signals the producer bottled it at source rather than a distant bottler - a useful sign you're holding an estate or co-op wine.

Engarrafado means bottled; 'na origem' or 'pelo produtor' signals the producer bottled it at source rather than a distant bottler - a useful sign you're holding an estate or co-op wine.

Bottled at source / by the producer

Watch out: A traceability clue, not a quality guarantee

Vinhas Velhas: old vines - often mixed plantings of many grapes.

Old vineyards give smaller crops and more concentrated wine. In Portugal many are field blends, with dozens of varieties planted together.

Portugal still holds a remarkable stock of old vineyards, especially in the Douro, Dão and Bairrada, and many of them are field blends: rows mixing dozens of red and white varieties that were planted together and are picked and fermented together. Growers once did this to spread risk across grapes that ripen at different times; today the result is prized for complexity that no single variety gives. Old vines crop lightly, so the wines are deeper and more layered, and these bottlings usually sit at the top of a producer's range. The phrase on the label is the producer's claim about the vineyard, so treat it as a pointer to the estate's ambition and taste the wine rather than relying on the words. For the curious, ask at the winery how many varieties grow in the plot - the answer is often surprising.

Old vines

Watch out: The phrase is the producer's claim - trust the house more than the words

Vinho Verde: 'young wine', not green - light, fresh, often faintly fizzy.

The classic blend is low in alcohol, crisp and often lightly sparkling, and the lightest ones carry a touch of sweetness. A grape name (Alvarinho, Loureiro) or a sub-region on the label usually means a drier, fuller wine.

The classic blend is low in alcohol, crisp and often lightly sparkling, and the lightest ones carry a touch of sweetness. A grape name (Alvarinho, Loureiro) or a sub-region on the label usually means a drier, fuller wine.

DOC for young, fresh wines from the Minho

Watch out: Cheap branded Vinho Verde is often off-dry; pick a named grape or sub-region for a drier glass

Seco is dry; meio seco off-dry; meio doce medium; doce sweet.

Still wines may state their sweetness. Most table wine is dry; the words matter most on Vinho Verde, rosé and fortified wines. Sparkling wine uses a separate scale.

Still wines may state their sweetness. Most table wine is dry; the words matter most on Vinho Verde, rosé and fortified wines. Sparkling wine uses a separate scale.

Sweetness of still wine

Watch out: On sparkling, 'Seco' is actually fairly sweet - look for 'Bruto' instead

Espumante = sparkling; 'método clássico' = Champagne-style; 'Bruto' = Brut.

Método clássico, método tradicional or fermentação em garrafa mean the bubbles formed in the bottle. 'Gaseificado' means gas was added - the simplest kind. Bairrada makes most of Portugal's sparkling.

Método clássico, método tradicional or fermentação em garrafa mean the bubbles formed in the bottle. 'Gaseificado' means gas was added - the simplest kind. Bairrada makes most of Portugal's sparkling.

Sparkling wine, method and sweetness

Watch out: Extra Seco and Seco on bubbly are sweeter than Bruto

Sparkling Reserva, Super Reserva, Velha Reserva = longer on the lees.

On quality sparkling, these words step up with time on the yeast before release - each rung brings more toast and depth.

Portugal's sparkling wine uses its own aging ladder, separate from still-wine Reserva. On DOC, regional or quality sparkling wines, Reserva, then Super or Extra Reserva, then Velha or Grande Reserva each signal a longer rest on the lees before release. Longer lees contact is what builds the bready, toasty, creamy character people associate with Champagne, so these terms are a fair proxy for depth. Bairrada is the heartland, with bottle-fermented sparkling made from Baga (sometimes as a blanc de noirs), Arinto, Bical and Maria Gomes; Távora-Varosa, near the Douro, is a region devoted to sparkling, and Vinho Verde, Dão and Douro producers now add their own. For a celebration in Portugal, a long-aged Bairrada bruto from a good house is the local answer to Champagne.

Lees-aging levels for sparkling

Watch out: Only on DOC/regional or quality sparkling; plain Espumante has no such promise

Port: ruby styles are fruity, tawny styles nutty; Vintage is the peak.

Ruby, Reserve and LBV keep dark fruit; aged tawnies (10, 20, 30, 40 years) and Colheita spend years in wood and turn nutty. Vintage Port comes only from declared years, bottled young to age for decades.

Ruby, Reserve and LBV keep dark fruit; aged tawnies (10, 20, 30, 40 years) and Colheita spend years in wood and turn nutty. Vintage Port comes only from declared years, bottled young to age for decades.

Port's main style ladder

Watch out: On aged tawny, check the bottling year - it doesn't improve after bottling

Madeira: the grape name tells you the sweetness, Sercial driest, Malvasia sweetest.

Madeira is heated and oxidised on purpose, so it is almost indestructible. Sercial is driest, then Verdelho, Boal and Malvasia; Tinta Negra is the workhorse. Age statements and Frasqueira mark the finest.

Madeira is fortified and then deliberately warmed: cheaper wines are heated in tanks (estufagem), while the best age slowly in casks under warm lodge roofs (canteiro). The result is oxidative, high-acid and remarkably stable - an open bottle keeps for months. The traditional grapes also indicate sweetness: Sercial (dry), Verdelho (medium-dry), Boal (medium-sweet) and Malvasia or Malmsey (sweet). Tinta Negra makes most of the island's wine and now often appears on labels by name. Blends carry age statements such as 5, 10 or 15 years. A Colheita is a single-harvest Madeira, and Frasqueira, the top tier, spends decades in cask. For value, a 10-year-old from a noble grape shows the real character; Frasqueira is the gift bottle.

Madeira grapes, sweetness and age tiers

Watch out: Cheap 'cooking' Madeira is a different product - buy a named grape with an age statement

Touriga Nacional: Portugal's flagship red - violets, black fruit, firm tannin.

Deep-coloured and intensely aromatic, with blackberry, blackcurrant and violet over firm tannin and fresh acidity. A backbone of Port and the top dry Douro and Dão reds.

Deep-coloured and intensely aromatic, with blackberry, blackcurrant and violet over firm tannin and fresh acidity. A backbone of Port and the top dry Douro and Dão reds.

red

Tastes like: Violet, blackberry, blackcurrant, firm tannin

Where it shines: Douro, Dão; also Alentejo and Lisboa

Order: A Dão tinto with Touriga Nacional for elegance, a Douro red for power

Touriga Franca: the Douro's most planted grape - floral, supple, blending partner.

Perfumed and fleshy with softer tannins than Touriga Nacional; it fills out Douro blends and Port.

Perfumed and fleshy with softer tannins than Touriga Nacional; it fills out Douro blends and Port.

red

Tastes like: Red and black fruit, floral, supple

Where it shines: Douro (dry reds and Port)

Order: A Douro red blend from a good quinta

Tinta Roriz / Aragonez: Tempranillo, Portuguese-style.

The same grape as Spain's Tempranillo: red cherry, plum and spice. Called Tinta Roriz in the north, Aragonez in the Alentejo, and nearly always blended.

The same grape as Spain's Tempranillo: red cherry, plum and spice. Called Tinta Roriz in the north, Aragonez in the Alentejo, and nearly always blended.

red

Tastes like: Red cherry, plum, spice

Where it shines: Douro, Dão, Alentejo

Order: An Alentejo red blend with grilled pork

Baga: Bairrada's high-acid, tannic, long-lived red.

Small, thick-skinned berries give sour cherry, plum and herbs with fierce acidity and tannin. Picked ripe and handled gently it is finer and long-lived; it also goes into sparkling.

Small, thick-skinned berries give sour cherry, plum and herbs with fierce acidity and tannin. Picked ripe and handled gently it is finer and long-lived; it also goes into sparkling.

red

Tastes like: Sour cherry, plum, herbs; high acid and tannin

Where it shines: Bairrada

Order: A Bairrada Baga with roast suckling pig (leitão)

Castelão (Periquita): soft, fruity everyday red of the south.

Medium-bodied, red-fruited and easy-going; widely planted south of Lisbon, especially around Palmela.

Medium-bodied, red-fruited and easy-going; widely planted south of Lisbon, especially around Palmela.

red

Tastes like: Red berries, soft, medium body

Where it shines: Península de Setúbal (Palmela), Tejo

Order: A Palmela red with grilled meat at a casual lunch

Trincadeira: warm, spicy southern red, often in Alentejo blends.

Spicy and herbal with ripe fruit; it adds lift to Alentejo blends. Known as Tinta Amarela in the Douro.

Spicy and herbal with ripe fruit; it adds lift to Alentejo blends. Known as Tinta Amarela in the Douro.

red

Tastes like: Ripe dark fruit, spice, herbs

Where it shines: Alentejo, Douro

Order: An Alentejo red blend with lamb or stews

Vinhão: red Vinho Verde - inky, tart and tannic.

A deeply coloured, sharp and peppery red, drunk young; its acidity and grip cut through rich Minho food. The most successful red grape of the cool, wet north.

A deeply coloured, sharp and peppery red, drunk young; its acidity and grip cut through rich Minho food. The most successful red grape of the cool, wet north.

red

Tastes like: Dark berries, pepper, high acid, rustic tannin

Where it shines: Vinho Verde (Minho)

Order: A glass of red Vinho Verde with grilled sardines or roast pork in the Minho

Alvarinho: peachy, saline, fuller-bodied white of the far north.

The same grape as Galicia's Albariño: citrus, peach and a salty tang with lively acidity, riper and fuller than standard Vinho Verde. Monção e Melgaço is the benchmark area.

The same grape as Galicia's Albariño: citrus, peach and a salty tang with lively acidity, riper and fuller than standard Vinho Verde. Monção e Melgaço is the benchmark area.

white

Tastes like: Peach, citrus, saline, fresh acidity

Where it shines: Vinho Verde - Monção e Melgaço

Order: Alvarinho from Monção e Melgaço with grilled fish or seafood rice

Loureiro: floral, lime-scented Vinho Verde white - light and refreshing.

Orange blossom, laurel and citrus on a light, crisp frame; one of the aromatic signatures of Vinho Verde.

Orange blossom, laurel and citrus on a light, crisp frame; one of the aromatic signatures of Vinho Verde.

white

Tastes like: Orange blossom, lime, bay leaf

Where it shines: Vinho Verde

Order: A single-variety Loureiro as an aperitif

Arinto: Portugal's high-acid workhorse white - lemon and crunch, even in heat.

Keeps bright, lemony acidity even in warm regions, so it freshens blends nationwide. Classic and pure in Bucelas near Lisbon; called Pederna in Vinho Verde.

Keeps bright, lemony acidity even in warm regions, so it freshens blends nationwide. Classic and pure in Bucelas near Lisbon; called Pederna in Vinho Verde.

white

Tastes like: Lemon, green apple, high acid, mineral

Where it shines: Bucelas (Lisboa), Alentejo, Vinho Verde, Bairrada sparkling

Order: A Bucelas Arinto with clams or fried fish

Encruzado: Dão's serious white - citrus, mineral, Burgundy-like with oak.

Grown almost only in Dão. Fresh citrus and stony notes; barrel-fermented versions gain weight and texture and age well.

Grown almost only in Dão. Fresh citrus and stony notes; barrel-fermented versions gain weight and texture and age well.

white

Tastes like: Citrus, mineral, nutty with oak

Where it shines: Dão

Order: A barrel-fermented Dão Encruzado with roast chicken or bacalhau

Antão Vaz: Alentejo's ripe, tropical, round white.

Ripe tropical fruit and a waxy texture with moderate acidity; often blended with Arinto for freshness.

Ripe tropical fruit and a waxy texture with moderate acidity; often blended with Arinto for freshness.

white

Tastes like: Tropical fruit, ripe peach, waxy

Where it shines: Alentejo

Order: An Alentejo white (Antão Vaz with Arinto) with grilled fish

Fernão Pires / Maria Gomes: soft, floral, early-drinking white.

Aromatic and gentle, with lime-blossom and orange-flower notes; widely planted and best young. Called Maria Gomes in Bairrada, where it also goes into sparkling.

Aromatic and gentle, with lime-blossom and orange-flower notes; widely planted and best young. Called Maria Gomes in Bairrada, where it also goes into sparkling.

white

Tastes like: Orange blossom, lime, soft

Where it shines: Tejo, Lisboa, Bairrada

Order: A young Tejo white on a hot afternoon

Moscatel: grapey, orange-peel sweet wines, fortified in Setúbal and Douro.

Muscat of Alexandria makes Moscatel de Setúbal, fortified and then left on its skins for intense orange-peel and honey; the Douro uses Moscatel Galego. Rare Moscatel Roxo is a pink-skinned version.

Muscat of Alexandria makes Moscatel de Setúbal, fortified and then left on its skins for intense orange-peel and honey; the Douro uses Moscatel Galego. Rare Moscatel Roxo is a pink-skinned version.

white

Tastes like: Orange peel, honey, apricot, raisin

Where it shines: Península de Setúbal, Douro

Order: A glass of Moscatel de Setúbal with custard tarts or almond desserts

In a tasca, order the vinho da casa - cheap, local, honest.

Traditional taverns pour an inexpensive house red or white, often in a small jug. It is part of the experience; in a serious restaurant, use the list instead.

Traditional taverns pour an inexpensive house red or white, often in a small jug. It is part of the experience; in a serious restaurant, use the list instead.

Tip: Ask: 'Tem vinho da casa?' - tinto or branco

The couvert (bread, olives, butter) isn't free - eat it and you pay.

Many restaurants put starters on the table unasked. It's legal and normal, but touching it means it's charged. Say 'não, obrigado' to send it back if you don't want it.

Many restaurants put starters on the table unasked. It's legal and normal, but touching it means it's charged. Say 'não, obrigado' to send it back if you don't want it.

Tip: Ask 'Quanto custa o couvert?' if unsure

Petiscos call for crisp whites and light reds.

Salty, fried and garlicky small plates - cod fritters, clams, grilled sausage - love high-acid wine. Vinho Verde or Arinto with seafood; a young, chilled red with chouriço.

Salty, fried and garlicky small plates - cod fritters, clams, grilled sausage - love high-acid wine. Vinho Verde or Arinto with seafood; a young, chilled red with chouriço.

Tip: With fried or salty food, order the crispest local white

'Um copo' is a glass; lists often show glass and bottle prices.

Wine by the glass is common; when a list shows two prices, the higher is for the bottle. Half bottles suit two people, and house wine may come in a pitcher.

Wine by the glass is common; when a list shows two prices, the higher is for the bottle. Half bottles suit two people, and house wine may come in a pitcher.

Tip: 'Um copo de tinto, por favor' = a glass of red, please

Lists are grouped by region - pick the one you're in.

Portuguese lists usually group wines by region. Local wines tend to be the best match for the food and the fairest buy; traditional restaurants mark up less than tourist spots.

Portuguese lists usually group wines by region. Local wines tend to be the best match for the food and the fairest buy; traditional restaurants mark up less than tourist spots.

Tip: Ask the staff for a local producer they like

Finish with a fortified glass: tawny Port, Moscatel or Madeira.

Every Portuguese meal can end sweetly. A 10-year-old tawny suits nutty desserts and cheese, Moscatel de Setúbal suits custard and almond sweets, and Madeira works with both.

Every Portuguese meal can end sweetly. A 10-year-old tawny suits nutty desserts and cheese, Moscatel de Setúbal suits custard and almond sweets, and Madeira works with both.

Tip: Ask: 'Tem um Porto tawny de 10 anos?'

Garrafeira: a specialist wine shop - the best place for advice.

Independent wine shops stock small producers and older vintages, and staff are used to matching a bottle to your taste and budget. Many offer tastings.

Independent wine shops stock small producers and older vintages, and staff are used to matching a bottle to your taste and budget. Many offer tastings.

Tip: Tell them your budget and what you usually drink

Supermarkets: big, fair-priced ranges - and frequent wine discounts.

Portuguese supermarkets carry wide national ranges at good prices and often run promotions. Look for DOC or Vinho Regional wines from named producers, not the cheapest bottles.

Portuguese supermarkets carry wide national ranges at good prices and often run promotions. Look for DOC or Vinho Regional wines from named producers, not the cheapest bottles.

Tip: Best for everyday staples and promo bargains, less for rarities

At the cellar door, buy what never leaves the estate.

Quintas and herdades sell older vintages, small cuvées and single-vineyard wines that rarely reach export markets, at prices close to good shops.

Quintas and herdades sell older vintages, small cuvées and single-vineyard wines that rarely reach export markets, at prices close to good shops.

Tip: Ask for older vintages or estate-only bottlings

Port lodges in Gaia and Madeira lodges in Funchal sell aged rarities.

Port houses age their wines in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Porto, and Madeira's producers are in Funchal. Their shops hold aged tawnies, Colheitas and old Madeiras that are hard to find abroad.

Port houses age their wines in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Porto, and Madeira's producers are in Funchal. Their shops hold aged tawnies, Colheitas and old Madeiras that are hard to find abroad.

Tip: An aged tawny or 10-year Madeira travels well and lasts once opened

Book winery visits ahead, especially small family estates.

Most estates receive visitors by appointment, and famous Port houses and Douro quintas fill up in high season. Book a few days ahead and confirm the day before.

Most estates receive visitors by appointment, and famous Port houses and Douro quintas fill up in high season. Book a few days ahead and confirm the day before.

Tip: Email or book online; confirm opening days

Check before you go — details here may have changed.

Driving: 0.5 g/L limit, 0.2 for new and professional drivers.

The general blood-alcohol limit is 0.5 g/L; drivers in their first three years and professional drivers are held to 0.2. A lower limit for everyone has been debated, so check before you travel. Spit, or book a driver.

The general blood-alcohol limit is 0.5 g/L; drivers in their first three years and professional drivers are held to 0.2. A lower limit for everyone has been debated, so check before you travel. Spit, or book a driver.

Tip: Designate a driver or hire a driver-guide on tasting days

Carrying wine home: pack it well or ask about shipping.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Aged tawny Port and Madeira are the sturdiest buys - they keep for weeks once opened. Or ask the quinta whether it ships.

Bottles travel well in checked luggage, wrapped in wine sleeves or clothes. Aged tawny Port and Madeira are the sturdiest buys - they keep for weeks once opened. Or ask the quinta whether it ships.

Tip: Pack bottles in checked luggage with wine sleeves

Fortified tastings are strong - pace yourself at Port and Madeira lodges.

Port and Madeira are fortified to roughly twice the strength of table wine, so a five-glass flight hits much harder than a normal tasting. Sip, spit or share.

Port and Madeira are fortified to roughly twice the strength of table wine, so a five-glass flight hits much harder than a normal tasting. Sip, spit or share.

Tip: Plan Port tastings for the end of the day, not before driving