Slovenia & Croatia

Most Slovenian wine is drunk at home - taste it at the cellar door.

Almost all Slovenian wine is drunk in Slovenia and very little is exported, so the best bottles are found on the spot: at the winery, in a local wine bar, or in a restaurant. Buy what you cannot get at home.

Almost all Slovenian wine is drunk in Slovenia and very little is exported, so the best bottles are found on the spot: at the winery, in a local wine bar, or in a restaurant. Buy what you cannot get at home.

Order the local grape of wherever you are standing.

Malvazija in Istria, Rebula in Brda, Pošip or Plavac Mali on the Dalmatian coast, Graševina inland. Each area's own grape is what the cooks and growers had in mind when they made the wine.

Malvazija in Istria, Rebula in Brda, Pošip or Plavac Mali on the Dalmatian coast, Graševina inland. Each area's own grape is what the cooks and growers had in mind when they made the wine.

Brda is the Slovenian half of Collio - same hills, same grapes.

The Collio guide uses the Italy module, but its Brda half is Slovenian. Brda and Collio were one region until the late 1940s and share soil and grapes; Rebula here is Ribolla Gialla across the border. Use this module for the Slovenian side's labels, prices and etiquette.

The Collio guide uses the Italy module, but its Brda half is Slovenian. Brda and Collio were one region until the late 1940s and share soil and grapes; Rebula here is Ribolla Gialla across the border. Use this module for the Slovenian side's labels, prices and etiquette.

Skip the word 'stolno' or 'namizno' if you want a wine of place.

Both mean plain table wine. For a wine with a sense of place, look for a named area (a Slovenian district, a Croatian region or site like Dingač) plus 'vrhunsko' or 'kakovostno/kvalitetno' on the label.

Both mean plain table wine. For a wine with a sense of place, look for a named area (a Slovenian district, a Croatian region or site like Dingač) plus 'vrhunsko' or 'kakovostno/kvalitetno' on the label.

Brda: Slovenia's best-known wine hills, home of Rebula, half of Collio.

Goriška Brda, on the Italian border, is Slovenia's best-known wine district. Rebula is the signature white, alongside Friulano-type whites, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot and sparkling wine. It is the Slovenian half of the landscape the Collio guide covers.

Goriška Brda, on the Italian border, is Slovenia's best-known wine district. Rebula is the signature white, alongside Friulano-type whites, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot and sparkling wine. It is the Slovenian half of the landscape the Collio guide covers.

Goriška Brda

Style: Textured, saline whites led by Rebula; some Merlot; skin-contact styles

Look for: Brda Rebula, Brda Pinot Gris, Brda Merlot, Brda sparkling (penina)

Vipava, Kras and Slovenian Istria: native Zelen and Pinela, Teran, Refošk, Malvazija.

South of Brda, the Vipava Valley is windy and makes crisp whites from Zelen and Pinela. The stony Kras plateau makes the dark, sharp red Teran. The short Slovenian coast around Koper has Malvazija and Refošk.

South of Brda, the Vipava Valley is windy and makes crisp whites from Zelen and Pinela. The stony Kras plateau makes the dark, sharp red Teran. The short Slovenian coast around Koper has Malvazija and Refošk.

Vipavska dolina · Kras · Slovenska Istra

Style: Fresh native whites; dark, high-acid reds

Look for: Vipava Zelen, Vipava Pinela, Kras Teran PTP, Slovenian Istria Refošk and Malvazija

Podravje: Slovenia's biggest region, cool, hilly and mostly white.

Along the Drava in the north-east, steep cool hills make Šipon (Furmint), Laški Rizling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinots, plus Modra Frankinja and some of the country's best sparkling wine. Maribor, home to a 400-year-old vine, is the hub.

Along the Drava in the north-east, steep cool hills make Šipon (Furmint), Laški Rizling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinots, plus Modra Frankinja and some of the country's best sparkling wine. Maribor, home to a 400-year-old vine, is the hub.

Štajerska Slovenija · Haloze · Ljutomer-Ormož · Prekmurje

Style: Crisp, high-acid whites; fresh Blaufränkisch; sparkling

Look for: Šipon, Laški Rizling, Sauvignon Blanc, Penina (sparkling)

Posavje: south-east Slovenia, home of light, sharp Cviček.

The Sava valley is the only Slovenian region that makes slightly more red than white. Its speciality is Cviček, a light, tart, pink-red blend of red and white grapes. Bizeljsko-Sremič is known for sparkling wine and late-harvest wines.

The Sava valley is the only Slovenian region that makes slightly more red than white. Its speciality is Cviček, a light, tart, pink-red blend of red and white grapes. Bizeljsko-Sremič is known for sparkling wine and late-harvest wines.

Dolenjska · Bizeljsko-Sremič · Bela krajina

Style: Light, tart reds and blends; sparkling

Look for: Cviček PTP, Bizeljsko-Sremič sparkling (Rumeni plavec)

Istria and Kvarner: Croatia's northwest, Malvazija, Teran, truffles and seafood.

The Istrian peninsula and Kvarner coast make crisp, aromatic Malvazija Istarska, earthy Teran, and a local Muscat around Momjan. Hilltop towns, taverns (konobe) and truffles round out a wine trip. Krk, in Kvarner, has its own white, Žlahtina.

The Istrian peninsula and Kvarner coast make crisp, aromatic Malvazija Istarska, earthy Teran, and a local Muscat around Momjan. Hilltop towns, taverns (konobe) and truffles round out a wine trip. Krk, in Kvarner, has its own white, Žlahtina.

Hrvatska Istra · Kvarner · Krk

Style: Fresh to textured Malvazija; full, earthy Teran; Muscat

Look for: Malvazija Istarska, Teran, Muškat momjanski, Vrbnička Žlahtina

Istria guide

Dalmatia: sunny coast and islands, Plavac Mali, Pošip, Grk, Babić.

The long south coast and its islands make big, sun-ripe reds (Plavac Mali, with Dingač and Postup the famed sites on Pelješac), plus salty whites like Pošip and Grk on Korčula. Babić is the red of the Šibenik-Primošten area, Vugava a white of Vis.

The long south coast and its islands make big, sun-ripe reds (Plavac Mali, with Dingač and Postup the famed sites on Pelješac), plus salty whites like Pošip and Grk on Korčula. Babić is the red of the Šibenik-Primošten area, Vugava a white of Vis.

Pelješac · Korčula · Hvar and Brač · Vis · Šibenik-Primošten · Konavle

Style: Warm, sun-ripe reds; salty, full whites

Look for: Dingač, Postup, Plavac Mali, Pošip, Grk, Babić

Slavonia and the Danube: Croatia's biggest region, Graševina country.

In the north-east plains, cold winters and warm summers suit Graševina (Welschriesling), Croatia's most widely planted grape, plus aromatic Traminac. Kutjevo and Ilok are the best-known wine towns, and the local Slavonian oak is prized for barrels.

In the north-east plains, cold winters and warm summers suit Graševina (Welschriesling), Croatia's most widely planted grape, plus aromatic Traminac. Kutjevo and Ilok are the best-known wine towns, and the local Slavonian oak is prized for barrels.

Kutjevo · Ilok · Erdut · Baranja · Daruvar

Style: Fresh, crisp whites; late-harvest; aromatic Traminac

Look for: Graševina, Traminac, Late-harvest Graševina

The uplands around Zagreb: cool, aromatic whites and sparkling wine.

Plešivica, Zagorje, Međimurje and Moslavina sit in cool hills near Zagreb. Expect zippy Sauvignon Blanc, rare local whites like Škrlet and Pušipel, and sparkling wine.

Plešivica, Zagorje, Međimurje and Moslavina sit in cool hills near Zagreb. Expect zippy Sauvignon Blanc, rare local whites like Škrlet and Pušipel, and sparkling wine.

Plešivica · Zagorje-Međimurje · Moslavina

Style: Cool-climate whites, sparkling

Look for: Plešivica sparkling, Sauvignon Blanc, Škrlet

Slovenia: look for the grape, the district, then vrhunsko or kakovostno.

A good Slovenian label names the producer, the grape (Rebula, Zelen, Šipon), the district (Goriška Brda, Vipavska dolina, Podravje) and a quality word. Sweetness comes last: suho means dry.

A good Slovenian label names the producer, the grape (Rebula, Zelen, Šipon), the district (Goriška Brda, Vipavska dolina, Podravje) and a quality word. Sweetness comes last: suho means dry.

Tip: Producer, grape, district, quality word, sweetness

Croatia: find the area or site, then the quality word.

Croatian labels give the grape and an area (Hrvatska Istra, Slavonija, Dingač) with a quality word like vrhunsko or kvalitetno. The narrower the place, the more serious the wine.

Croatian labels give the grape and an area (Hrvatska Istra, Slavonija, Dingač) with a quality word like vrhunsko or kvalitetno. The narrower the place, the more serious the wine.

Tip: Grape, area or site, quality word

Same grapes can have two names across the border.

Rebula (Slovenia) is Ribolla Gialla (Italy). Malvazija is Malvasia Istriana. Refošk is Refosco. Learn the pairs and shops in both countries become easier to read.

Rebula (Slovenia) is Ribolla Gialla (Italy). Malvazija is Malvasia Istriana. Refošk is Refosco. Learn the pairs and shops in both countries become easier to read.

Tip: Rebula = Ribolla; Malvazija = Malvasia Istriana; Refošk = Refosco

'Teran' means a Kras red in Slovenia and an Istrian red in Croatia.

Both are dark, high-acid reds from red, iron-rich soils. In Slovenia it is protected as Teran PTP from Kras and made from Refošk. Croatian Istrian Teran is its own wine from Istria. Look for the country and area on the label.

Both are dark, high-acid reds from red, iron-rich soils. In Slovenia it is protected as Teran PTP from Kras and made from Refošk. Croatian Istrian Teran is its own wine from Istria. Look for the country and area on the label.

Tip: Check the area: Kras for Slovenian PTP, Istria for Croatian Teran

Slovenia, vrhunsko vino: the top category, from one named district.

'Vrhunsko vino' is Slovenia's premium quality level. The wine comes from a single named district and is made under strict rules.

'Vrhunsko vino' is Slovenia's premium quality level. The wine comes from a single named district and is made under strict rules.

Premium quality wine from a protected district

Spot it: 'Vrhunsko vino' plus a district such as Goriška Brda or Vipavska dolina

Slovenia, kakovostno vino: quality wine from a named district.

A step below vrhunsko, still tied to one district and approved grapes. Good for everyday drinking at a fair price.

A step below vrhunsko, still tied to one district and approved grapes. Good for everyday drinking at a fair price.

Quality wine from a protected district

Spot it: 'Kakovostno vino' with a district name

Slovenia, deželno and namizno vino: regional and table wine, the simple end.

Deželno is wine with a broad regional stamp, namizno is plain table wine. Fine for a carafe; rarely the bottle to take home.

Deželno is wine with a broad regional stamp, namizno is plain table wine. Fine for a carafe; rarely the bottle to take home.

Regional wine / table wine

Spot it: 'Deželno vino' or 'Namizno vino' with no district

Croatia, vrhunsko vino: the top quality word on a Croatian label.

Croatia's highest everyday quality category. It usually sits beside a named region or site, such as Dingač, Hrvatska Istra or Kutjevo.

Croatia's highest everyday quality category. It usually sits beside a named region or site, such as Dingač, Hrvatska Istra or Kutjevo.

Premium quality wine, often with a named area

Spot it: 'Vrhunsko vino' beside a region or site name

Croatia, kvalitetno vino: the dependable middle tier.

Quality wine from a defined area. This is where most good-value Croatian bottles sit.

Quality wine from a defined area. This is where most good-value Croatian bottles sit.

Quality wine

Spot it: 'Kvalitetno vino' with an area name

Croatia, stolno vino: table wine - but some strong wines wear it too.

Stolno vino is the basic table-wine category. A few ambitious bottles carry it anyway, so judge by the producer, not just the word.

Stolno vino is the basic table-wine category. A few ambitious bottles carry it anyway, so judge by the producer, not just the word.

Table wine

Spot it: 'Stolno vino' with no ZOI or area

Suho is dry, slatko sweet; Slovenian labels add polsuho and polsladko.

Croatian and Slovenian labels both use suho (dry) and slatko (sweet). Slovenia also uses polsuho (off-dry) and polsladko (medium-sweet). High acidity means a polsuho wine often tastes drier than it sounds.

Croatian and Slovenian labels both use suho (dry) and slatko (sweet). Slovenia also uses polsuho (off-dry) and polsladko (medium-sweet). High acidity means a polsuho wine often tastes drier than it sounds.

Dry / off-dry / medium-sweet / sweet

Watch out: Podravje wines are often made off-dry; check before ordering with dinner

PTP marks protected Slovenian specialities: Teran and Cviček.

PTP stands for a 'traditional designation'. Only wine from the right area, made the traditional way, can be labelled Teran PTP (Kras) or Cviček PTP (Dolenjska).

PTP stands for a 'traditional designation'. Only wine from the right area, made the traditional way, can be labelled Teran PTP (Kras) or Cviček PTP (Dolenjska).

Protected traditional name

Watch out: Teran also exists in Croatian Istria; the Slovenian one carries PTP

ZOI is Croatia's protected-origin stamp; it can name a region or a single site.

ZOI stands for Zaštićena oznaka izvornosti, Croatia's version of the EU's protected designation of origin. It tells you the grapes grew and the wine was made in the named area.

Croatia protects its origin names in nested layers: four broad wine regions, with many smaller areas inside them. A grower can usually label a wine with either the broad region or the narrower area, so a wine from Istria may say either the large coastal region or Hrvatska Istra. Each area has its own permitted grapes, which is why Plavac Mali cannot carry a Plešivica ZOI. At the smallest scale, sites like Dingač and Postup on Pelješac are protected names in their own right. 'Vrhunsko vino' together with a narrow area name is the signal for a more specific wine; a broad regional ZOI is usually the everyday bottle. If a site name is on the label, you are drinking from one slope, not a blend.

Croatian protected designation of origin

Watch out: The narrow name (e.g. Dingač) is more specific than the regional one

Penina and 'tradicionalna metoda' = Slovenian bottle-fermented sparkling wine.

Penina is Slovenian sparkling wine. 'Tradicionalna metoda' (bottle fermentation) is the better method, 'charmat' is the tank method. Avoid 'gazirano vino' and 'biser', the cheap carbonated or semi-sparkling kinds.

Penina is Slovenian sparkling wine. 'Tradicionalna metoda' (bottle fermentation) is the better method, 'charmat' is the tank method. Avoid 'gazirano vino' and 'biser', the cheap carbonated or semi-sparkling kinds.

Sparkling wine / bottle-fermented

Watch out: 'Gazirano vino' is carbonated wine, not true sparkling

Mlado vino is young wine, released after St Martin's Day and best drunk by January.

In Slovenia, new wine is celebrated at Martinovanje (St Martin's feast, 11 November) and is sold until mid-January. Croatia has the same word, 'mlado vino', for young wine. Drink it fresh.

In Slovenia, new wine is celebrated at Martinovanje (St Martin's feast, 11 November) and is sold until mid-January. Croatia has the same word, 'mlado vino', for young wine. Drink it fresh.

Young, new-vintage wine

Watch out: Not for keeping; buy and drink on the trip

Sweet-wine ladder: pozna trgatev, izbor, jagodni izbor, suhi jagodni izbor.

Sweet Slovenian wines climb from late harvest (pozna trgatev) through selected bunches (izbor) and selected berries (jagodni izbor) to the rarest, fully botrytised berries (suhi jagodni izbor). Ledeno vino is icewine and slamno vino is straw-dried, mostly from Primorska.

Sweet Slovenian wines climb from late harvest (pozna trgatev) through selected bunches (izbor) and selected berries (jagodni izbor) to the rarest, fully botrytised berries (suhi jagodni izbor). Ledeno vino is icewine and slamno vino is straw-dried, mostly from Primorska.

Slovenian sweet-wine ripeness levels

Watch out: Rare and pricey at the top; start with izbor

'Cru' on a Brda label = a single-vineyard wine.

Some Brda estates mark their single-vineyard bottlings 'Cru', often with the site name such as Opoka. It is the estate's own term, not a legal rank.

Some Brda estates mark their single-vineyard bottlings 'Cru', often with the site name such as Opoka. It is the estate's own term, not a legal rank.

Single-vineyard bottling, producer's own term

Watch out: Quality depends on the producer, not the word

A grape name on the label means it is mostly that grape.

In Slovenia, a single grape name means the wine is essentially that variety; two names mean a blend of those two.

In Slovenia, a single grape name means the wine is essentially that variety; two names mean a blend of those two.

Grape on the label tells you what is inside

Watch out: Blends often carry a proprietary name, not grapes

Sauvignon Vert is Friulano in Brda.

Italy reserves the Friulano name for its own Collio wines, so Brda producers sell the same white grape as Sauvignon Vert. If you liked Friulano, try it here.

Italy reserves the Friulano name for its own Collio wines, so Brda producers sell the same white grape as Sauvignon Vert. If you liked Friulano, try it here.

Brda name for Friulano

Watch out: Not Sauvignon Blanc

Vinogorje is a wine-growing area; vinograd is a vineyard.

Two words on Croatian labels and signs. Vinogorje is the area or hillside, vinograd the vineyard itself.

Two words on Croatian labels and signs. Vinogorje is the area or hillside, vinograd the vineyard itself.

Wine-growing area / vineyard

Watch out: Vinogorje is not one vineyard

'Plavac' alone is usually a simpler, lighter Plavac Mali.

On the Dalmatian coast, a bottle simply called Plavac is typically an unoaked, lower-alcohol everyday version. A named site like Dingač is the more serious wine.

On the Dalmatian coast, a bottle simply called Plavac is typically an unoaked, lower-alcohol everyday version. A named site like Dingač is the more serious wine.

Short for Plavac Mali, usually the simple style

Watch out: Not a place; check for a site name for the serious bottle

Orange and macerated wines are a regional signature on both sides of the border.

Skin-contact white wines, including long-macerated Rebula, Malvazija and Zelen, are widely made in Brda, Vipava and Istria.

Brda and Vipava in Slovenia, and Istria in Croatia, have a strong tradition of macerated white wines, often made from the local grape. Producers make a spectrum: briefly macerated wines that are fresh and fruity, medium styles with firm texture, and full orange wines aged for months or years in wood, amphora or concrete. On a label it may read amfora, macerated or orange, or not be flagged at all, so ask. In Brda, Rebula is the main grape; in Vipava, the macerated versions are made by estates such as Lepa Vida and Mlečnik; in Istria, Clai and Roxanich are known for orange Malvazija. Serve these slightly cool, not cold, and with food: they have tannin and grip that white wine rarely has.

White wine made with skin contact

Watch out: Ask, because style varies a lot from light to very grippy

Prošek is the Dalmatian dessert wine from dried grapes.

A sweet, dessert-style wine from dried grapes, red or white. The name is contested with Italy's Prosecco camp in the EU, so labels may vary; ask for the local dessert wine.

A sweet, dessert-style wine from dried grapes, red or white. The name is contested with Italy's Prosecco camp in the EU, so labels may vary; ask for the local dessert wine.

Dalmatian sweet wine from dried grapes

Watch out: Not sparkling, and nothing to do with Prosecco

Check before you go — details here may have changed.

Malvazija Istarska: Istria's fresh, aromatic dry white.

Acacia, green apple and almond, with a mineral finish. Coastal styles are fuller, inland ones more delicate. Slovenian Istria grows it too, and the same grape is Malvasia Istriana in Friuli. Some producers make textured or orange versions.

Acacia, green apple and almond, with a mineral finish. Coastal styles are fuller, inland ones more delicate. Slovenian Istria grows it too, and the same grape is Malvasia Istriana in Friuli. Some producers make textured or orange versions.

white

Tastes like: Acacia, green apple, almond, mineral finish

Where it shines: Hrvatska Istra, Slovenian Istria

Order: Young Istrian Malvazija with fish or truffle pasta; Kozlović, Matošević and Coronica are reliable names

Teran and Refošk: dark, high-acid reds with violets and pepper.

A deep, tart, tannic red. Slovenian Kras Teran is made from Refošk on red iron-rich soil and is traditionally a partner for rich, fatty food. Istrian Teran is full-bodied with dark berries and a peppery finish.

A deep, tart, tannic red. Slovenian Kras Teran is made from Refošk on red iron-rich soil and is traditionally a partner for rich, fatty food. Istrian Teran is full-bodied with dark berries and a peppery finish.

red

Tastes like: Dark berries, violet, earth, pepper, high acidity

Where it shines: Kras (Slovenia), Istria (Croatia), Slovenian Istria

Order: Kras Teran PTP with cured meats or a fatty dish; Vinakras' La Marie is a named example

Rebula (Ribolla Gialla): Brda's textured, saline white.

Brda's signature grape and the same variety as Ribolla Gialla in Collio. It makes dry still wines, sparkling, a little dessert wine and, increasingly, skin-contact styles. Not especially aromatic; the appeal is texture and a stony, salty finish.

Brda's signature grape and the same variety as Ribolla Gialla in Collio. It makes dry still wines, sparkling, a little dessert wine and, increasingly, skin-contact styles. Not especially aromatic; the appeal is texture and a stony, salty finish.

white

Tastes like: Stone fruit, almond, salty minerality

Where it shines: Goriška Brda, Vipava

Order: A classic unoaked Brda Rebula from Ferdinand, Edi Simčič or Marjan Simčič

Zelen: Vipava's native white, herbal, spicy and crisp.

A Vipava-only grape, protected and being revived, grown on windswept flysch slopes. Medium-bodied and refreshing, with herbal, spicy notes.

A Vipava-only grape, protected and being revived, grown on windswept flysch slopes. Medium-bodied and refreshing, with herbal, spicy notes.

white

Tastes like: Herbs, spice, citrus, fresh acidity

Where it shines: Vipava Valley

Order: Vipava 1894 Zelen or a Zelen from Guerila or Lepa Vida

Pinela: floral, citrusy and high in acidity, another Vipava native.

Yellow-green, gently floral and fruity, with brisk acidity. Best young, though it ripens into richer notes with a little age.

Yellow-green, gently floral and fruity, with brisk acidity. Best young, though it ripens into richer notes with a little age.

white

Tastes like: Flowers, citrus, high acidity

Where it shines: Vipava Valley

Order: Mansus or Marc Pinela with starters or fish

Šipon (Furmint): Slovenia's dry, ageing white from the north-east.

Slovenia is the world's second-biggest grower of Furmint, and here it is traditionally dry. Fresh and age-worthy, from Podravje producers.

Slovenia is the world's second-biggest grower of Furmint, and here it is traditionally dry. Fresh and age-worthy, from Podravje producers.

white

Tastes like: Orchard fruit, citrus, firm acidity

Where it shines: Podravje (Haloze, Ljutomer-Ormož)

Order: Dry Šipon from Verus or Dveri-Pax

Graševina: Croatia's everyday white, crisp and green-apple fresh.

Welschriesling, Croatia's most planted white, not related to Rhine Riesling. Fresh and dry for daily drinking, with Kutjevo and Ilok as the heartland, also made as late-harvest and sparkling. In Slovenia the same grape is Laški Rizling.

Welschriesling, Croatia's most planted white, not related to Rhine Riesling. Fresh and dry for daily drinking, with Kutjevo and Ilok as the heartland, also made as late-harvest and sparkling. In Slovenia the same grape is Laški Rizling.

white

Tastes like: Green apple, citrus, flowers

Where it shines: Slavonia (Kutjevo, Ilok), Croatian Danube

Order: A Kutjevo Graševina from Krauthaker, Galić or Enjingi

Modra Frankinja / Frankovka: Blaufränkisch, peppery and food-friendly.

Known as Frankovka in Croatia and Modra Frankinja in Slovenia. Fresh, elegant reds with black cherry and spice, a style Podravje makes particularly well.

Known as Frankovka in Croatia and Modra Frankinja in Slovenia. Fresh, elegant reds with black cherry and spice, a style Podravje makes particularly well.

red

Tastes like: Black cherry, spice, fresh acidity

Where it shines: Podravje, Posavje, Continental Croatia

Order: Marof or Kobal Modra Frankinja with roast meat

Plavac Mali: Dalmatia's big, dark, high-alcohol red.

A cross of Crljenak Kaštelanski (Zinfandel) and Dobričić. Powerful and tannic, with dark cherry, dried fruit, pepper and spice. Dingač and Postup on Pelješac are the famed sites.

A cross of Crljenak Kaštelanski (Zinfandel) and Dobričić. Powerful and tannic, with dark cherry, dried fruit, pepper and spice. Dingač and Postup on Pelješac are the famed sites.

red

Tastes like: Dark cherry, plum, pepper, dried fruit, firm tannin

Where it shines: Pelješac, Hvar, Brač

Order: Dingač or Postup from Miloš or Bura-Mrgudić, with grilled meat

Pošip: golden, full-bodied coastal white from Korčula.

A rich, dry white with apricot, fig and citrus and balanced acidity. Native to Korčula (Čara, Smokvica) and now grown on Pelješac and Hvar.

A rich, dry white with apricot, fig and citrus and balanced acidity. Native to Korčula (Čara, Smokvica) and now grown on Pelješac and Hvar.

white

Tastes like: Apricot, fig, citrus, herbs

Where it shines: Korčula, Pelješac, Hvar

Order: Pošip from Krajančić with fresh seafood

Babić: savoury, medium-bodied red of the Šibenik-Primošten coast.

A dark red with blackberry, cherry and pepper that turns rounder with age. Often the more affordable Dalmatian red.

A dark red with blackberry, cherry and pepper that turns rounder with age. Often the more affordable Dalmatian red.

red

Tastes like: Blackberry, cherry, pepper, savoury spice

Where it shines: Primošten, Šibenik area

Order: A Primošten Babić with stews or grilled meat

Grk: rare, salty, oily white from Korčula's sandy soils.

Grown in sand around Lumbarda on Korčula. Oily texture, Mediterranean herbs, citrus and a slightly bitter finish. Pair it with fresh Adriatic seafood.

Grown in sand around Lumbarda on Korčula. Oily texture, Mediterranean herbs, citrus and a slightly bitter finish. Pair it with fresh Adriatic seafood.

white

Tastes like: Citrus, apple, herbs, slight bitterness, saline

Where it shines: Lumbarda, Korčula

Order: Grk from Bire or Cebalo with fresh seafood

Žametovka: an ancient local red now turned into fine sparkling wine.

A pale, light red grape from Podravje, the variety behind a Maribor vine of over 400 years old. New-wave producers use it for sparkling wine.

Žametovka (also Žametna črnina, 'black velvet') is one of Slovenia's oldest domesticated grapes and gives light, pale wines with a raspberry-like aroma and plenty of acidity. A vine at Maribor, listed as the world's oldest fruit-bearing vine, is over four centuries old. Traditionally it was a blending grape for colour and acidity; today it is increasingly made into traditional-method sparkling wine by new-wave producers such as Domaine Slapšak, where it makes up the bulk of production at around 500 m, and Kozinc. It is a good example of Slovenia's rediscovery of old local grapes.

red

Tastes like: Raspberry, redcurrant, high acidity

Where it shines: Podravje (Maribor), Posavje

Order: A Žametovka sparkling from Domaine Slapšak

Muškat momjanski: Momjan's sweet-smelling, dry-tasting Muscat.

A local Muscat from the Momjan area of Istria with its own protected name. Kabola makes an organic version.

A local Muscat from the Momjan area of Istria with its own protected name. Kabola makes an organic version.

white

Tastes like: Grapey, floral, honey, fresh

Where it shines: Momjan, northwest Istria

Order: Kabola's Momjan Muscat

Žlahtina: Krk's dry golden white, best in its first two years.

The white of Vrbnik on Krk. Dry and golden, drunk young; a sparkling version also exists.

The white of Vrbnik on Krk. Dry and golden, drunk young; a sparkling version also exists.

white

Tastes like: Citrus, orchard fruit, fresh

Where it shines: Vrbnik, Krk

Order: Vrbnička Žlahtina with grilled fish

Try gemišt in the north and bevanda in the south.

Gemišt is white wine with sparkling mineral water, the drink of continental Croatia. Bevanda is red wine with still water, from the south. They are normal, not embarrassing. Gemišt is usually 'two parts water to eight of wine'; polkač is half and half.

Gemišt is white wine with sparkling mineral water, the drink of continental Croatia. Bevanda is red wine with still water, from the south. They are normal, not embarrassing. Gemišt is usually 'two parts water to eight of wine'; polkač is half and half.

Tip: Ask for 'gemišt' with Graševina in Slavonia, 'bevanda' on the coast

The default house white in a Croatian bar is Graševina.

A small bottle of Graševina is the usual simple white. Ambitious wines like Plavac Mali are more likely at wine bars and upscale hotels.

A small bottle of Graševina is the usual simple white. Ambitious wines like Plavac Mali are more likely at wine bars and upscale hotels.

Tip: Ask 'domaće vino?' for the house wine, but check the grape

In Istria, pair Malvazija with seafood and truffles, Teran with meat.

Konobe (traditional taverns) serve fresh seafood and, in autumn, truffles on pasta and eggs. Malvazija suits both, and Teran takes over for grilled and roast meats.

Konobe (traditional taverns) serve fresh seafood and, in autumn, truffles on pasta and eggs. Malvazija suits both, and Teran takes over for grilled and roast meats.

Tip: Truffle season peaks Oct-Nov

Dalmatia: Pošip or Grk with fish, Plavac Mali or Babić with grilled meat.

Salty, full whites like Pošip and Grk are natural with the day's catch. Plavac Mali and Babić, both structured reds, handle grilled meat and stews.

Salty, full whites like Pošip and Grk are natural with the day's catch. Plavac Mali and Babić, both structured reds, handle grilled meat and stews.

Tip: Order a coastal white with seafood, a red with the grill

Brda and the Karst: osmica farms serve own wine with cold cuts.

An osmica (osmiza in Italian) is a farm selling its own wine and simple food - eggs, salami, cheese - for limited periods. A bundle of branches (frasca) by the road means it is open. Terrano, Vitovska and Malvazija are typical.

An osmica (osmiza in Italian) is a farm selling its own wine and simple food - eggs, salami, cheese - for limited periods. A bundle of branches (frasca) by the road means it is open. Terrano, Vitovska and Malvazija are typical.

Tip: Look for the frasca (branch bundle) on the road

Slovenian wine lists favour local wine by the glass.

Good bars in Ljubljana and Brda list their own country's wines by the glass, often organised by region and grape. Try something unfamiliar rather than a familiar import.

Good bars in Ljubljana and Brda list their own country's wines by the glass, often organised by region and grape. Try something unfamiliar rather than a familiar import.

Tip: Ask for something local by the glass first

Teran is the traditional partner to fatty, cured food.

In Slovenia, Teran's high acidity is said to cut the richness of fatty dishes and cured meats. Try it with Karst prosciutto, ham or sausage.

In Slovenia, Teran's high acidity is said to cut the richness of fatty dishes and cured meats. Try it with Karst prosciutto, ham or sausage.

Tip: Order Teran with prosciutto or a meat board

Cellar door: the best way to buy, especially in Slovenia.

Because so little Slovenian wine is exported, small producers' bottles are mostly sold on the spot. In Croatia too, many wineries are small and local; taste first, then buy.

Because so little Slovenian wine is exported, small producers' bottles are mostly sold on the spot. In Croatia too, many wineries are small and local; taste first, then buy.

Tip: Call ahead; bring cash in smaller places

Cooperative cellars: Klet Brda, Vipava 1894, Kutjevo.

Cooperatives and large historic cellars sell a wide range at fair prices, and offer cellar tours and tastings. Klet Brda serves many growers' fruit; Vipava 1894 is Slovenia's oldest cooperative; Kutjevo's cellar dates to 1232.

Cooperatives and large historic cellars sell a wide range at fair prices, and offer cellar tours and tastings. Klet Brda serves many growers' fruit; Vipava 1894 is Slovenia's oldest cooperative; Kutjevo's cellar dates to 1232.

Tip: Good first stop for a broad overview

Vinoteka: wine shop and bar in one, good for one-stop tasting.

In Ljubljana, Vinoteka Movia and Grajska vinoteka at the castle sell Slovenian wine, and Vinoteka Brda in Šmartno pours dozens of Brda producers by the glass.

In Ljubljana, Vinoteka Movia and Grajska vinoteka at the castle sell Slovenian wine, and Vinoteka Brda in Šmartno pours dozens of Brda producers by the glass.

Tip: Ask for a flight of local grapes

Wine shops in cities and tourist towns carry a wide selection.

Specialist shops in larger cities and coastal towns offer broader choice than supermarkets. Some restaurants will also sell you a bottle to take home.

Specialist shops in larger cities and coastal towns offer broader choice than supermarkets. Some restaurants will also sell you a bottle to take home.

Tip: Ask staff for a local grape you cannot get at home

Osmica and farm cellars: tiny volumes, local bottles.

On the Karst and in Brda, osmice sell their own wine in small quantities, usually in carafes or bottles at modest prices.

On the Karst and in Brda, osmice sell their own wine in small quantities, usually in carafes or bottles at modest prices.

Tip: Check which days they are open

You need a car, and a designated driver.

Wine areas are spread out, vineyards are remote and roads wind. Hire a car, and plan for a designated driver or a taxi tour.

Wine areas are spread out, vineyards are remote and roads wind. Hire a car, and plan for a designated driver or a taxi tour.

Tip: Plan the driver before the tasting

Book ahead; call before turning up.

In Istria, popular producers book out in summer; booking about a week ahead is wise. In Croatia, phone to check someone can host a tasting, and carry cash for small places.

In Istria, popular producers book out in summer; booking about a week ahead is wise. In Croatia, phone to check someone can host a tasting, and carry cash for small places.

Tip: Call a few days ahead and carry cash

Best seasons: spring and early autumn.

April-May has good weather and fewer crowds; September-October is harvest, and in Istria the truffle season runs October-November. Winter is quiet but fine for cellar visits.

April-May has good weather and fewer crowds; September-October is harvest, and in Istria the truffle season runs October-November. Winter is quiet but fine for cellar visits.

Tip: Combine harvest with truffle season in Istria

Brda, Collio and the Karst are an easy cross-border trip.

Brda and Collio share the same hills; the border was removed in 1991. Konvin in Dolnje Cerovo sits at a former border crossing, so you can park in Italy and walk over.

Brda and Collio share the same hills; the border was removed in 1991. Konvin in Dolnje Cerovo sits at a former border crossing, so you can park in Italy and walk over.

Tip: Taste on both sides in one day

Buy what you cannot get at home.

Few Slovenian or small Croatian wines are exported, so prioritise bottles you will not see in shops back home.

Few Slovenian or small Croatian wines are exported, so prioritise bottles you will not see in shops back home.

Tip: Skip big brands; buy the local grape

Check restaurant bottle prices against shop prices.

Restaurants add markup, so cellar doors and shops are usually the cheaper way to buy a bottle you like.

Restaurants add markup, so cellar doors and shops are usually the cheaper way to buy a bottle you like.

Tip: Taste by the glass in the restaurant, buy the bottle at the winery